Hi, I've just recently started to build my mini. Its' a 76 leyland panel van. I've noticed that the driveline in the car is a CV Joint, however the mount that is on the engine I bought Is a rubber universal joint. Could anyone give me suggestions on what joint to use. Im new mini's so I don't really know what I'm doing.

Thanks
Michael

The inner CV joint (aka pot joint) from later cars are miles better than the old rubber coupling. They also use different driveshafts

You can swap the diff outputs on the new engine to the CV type

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To use the inner constant velocity joints (pot joint) that are on your car already, the rubber type yoke and its output shafts have to be removed from the diff and changed to these output shafts to take the pot joints.
https://minisport.com.au/mini-moke-outp ... -pot-joint

Unfortunately, the diff needs to be removed and separated for the new output shafts to be installed, as "timmy201" has said.
I'm not sure if the diff side covers also need to be replaced, as I've never had a mini with pot joints.

The alternative might be to keep the rubber yokes on the new motor and buy 2 drive shafts and 2 rubber-type outer yokes that fit to the driveshafts. These are often for sale here a reasonable prices. You would still have to remove the driveshafts that are already on your car, as timmy said they were different.

Timmy's completely correct...

However, if you're just starting out, the easiest solution might depend on whether you intend pulling the engine/gearbox apart.

If you're just going to install the power unit you have, it will be probably be easier to swap the drive shafts/inner joints to match what's presently attached to the diff.

Cheers, Ian

PS Bill beat me to it....

The side covers are the same for rubber or pot joints.

Pot joints are cheap, smooth and strong. There’s no downsides, especially if you have them already

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So long as the grooves and balls are not worn out...larger balls can be fitted, but...OK?

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"Show me the Mini!"

Be aware that new pot joints are a bigger inside diameter than the original Leyland ones. Inner spider and cage are not interchangeable between the two types.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I suggested keeping the rubber uni set-up as an alternative to having to pull the diff apart. Like Ian said, that could be a bit daunting for someone starting out on minis even if the pot joints are ultimately a better option.

what type of shifter do you have on the gearbox? Is it the engine/box that was in the van?

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Thanks for all the help!

Which i am currently finding out...

do you have a few spares laying around Kev? might try and swap ya

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Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

I agree with Bill B, retain the couplings you already have but fit these alternative Quinton Hazel type heavy duty needle roller couplings with plastic ends, they drop straight in and are better than the original rubber type http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/QL5000.aspx

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)