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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2019 6:46 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon May 06, 2019 5:29 pm
Posts: 441
Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
My apologies in advance. I'm sometimes not sure where I should post this sort of thing, so please move or let me know where it should go.

When I had my tail lights out when getting the paint job I noticed that one had a silver foil behind the reflector lens, but the other didn't. Thinking about how poor the stop lights are on the mini, even after replacing them with a brighter LED stop/tail light bulb, and especially given how low they are, I got to thinking that it should be easy to setup a high intensity LED panel that would fit right behind the reflector lens. So i found a panel that was a perfect size and wired the RH one up today. These panels come with sticky back that makes it easy to fix onto the tail light housing. Just had to drill a small hole through housing for the wires. Got to say the difference is night and day. You can really see the brake light come on now. The reflector will still work as a reflector if needed in an emergency too.

The pics below show the difference. The left hand does have the brake light on, even though in comparison it looks like it's just the park light.

Attachment:
tail light 3.jpg


Attachment:
tail light 1.jpg


Attachment:
tail light 2.jpg


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
Posts: 2582
Location: Brisbane
thanks champ.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2019 8:19 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2016 7:06 pm
Posts: 128
Dazzling!!!
As its looks to be an early car you probably have the brake light switch in the hydraulic line. If that is so then your great lights will only show when you have pushed well down on the pedal. Think about fitting a brake light switch (from about 1970 onwards ??) above the brake pedal lever. The lights will come on at the first touch of the pedal. You can wire the two switches in parallel so you don't have to remove the original one and if either switch fails then the lights will still work.
(You could also check to see if the brake lights work with the engine turned off. If not, think about wiring then to an always on power supply).


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:51 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon May 06, 2019 5:29 pm
Posts: 441
Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
Thanks Dave, you are correct with the switch and great idea adding the new one to the pedal and leaving the original in place. That will be next job, cheers :D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 6:28 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2016 7:06 pm
Posts: 128
Clip
If you do the two switches in parallel, drive both from the same "always on" supply or both from the "ignition on" supply. I dont think that it would be an issue if they were connected from the different supplies but it is not worth finding out.
I wired mine so that both switches were in parallel to earth through the coil of a relay mounted near the "fuse box". The relay then drives the brake lights and high centre LED brake lights in the back window, closer to the eyeline of following drivers. (I also fitted 5 watt bulbs to my spot lights and wired them as Daytime Running Lights. I want to be SEEN. DRLs must switch off when the car lights turn on, so the wiring is messy and definitely needs relays.)
Dave D


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2019 7:28 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39753
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Great looking mod!
After getting 3 months from one new hydraulic switch and 3 weeks from another I would not bother relying on them. They are now rubbish. :(
I'd just relocate the wiring to the pedal switch as I did.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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