Hi - I’m trying to adjust the clutch on my 1275 Clubman. I’ve replaced the slave cylinder, bled the system, topped up the master, adjusted the big nuts to 1/8” gap, adjusted the stop to 20 thou. Now before I put the spring back on the clutch will disengage right at the bottom of the pedal travel but once the spring (& it’s an old one with limited tension!) on the clutch doesn’t disengage well. Any advice would be much appreciated. Bloody spell check made it pre-vertigo instead of pre-verto!!! Grrr can’t update title! Sorry!


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That title is quite funny for a part that spins. Didn't realise spellcheck has a sense of honour.

I posted a reply to this in timmy201 thread.

Ha ha. Very subtle Bill.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Forget adjusting the big nuts THROW THEM AWAY !!!

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That's why it's good to be.............ME

....... Along with the spring

Cheers, Ian

The spring doesn’t really seem to do anything - thanks for the replies in the other thread - all working nicely now!


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now your throw-out bearing will be running on the clutch the entire time you are driving the car,,, not going 5to last long that way

& if there is an issue with the clutch hose, or a bit of crap in the hose/pipe, or a bit of clutch plate material decides to come off & double-up then you have a good chance of busting your center-main-cap bolts off,,, at best it will just break the pivot lug off the alloy clutch wok (hopefully) instead of busting your center main-cap bolts

don`t throw away the "Anti-over-throw-nuts" , that`s what they`re there for,,, to help it not to over-throw

sorry to all who have said to throw them away,,, but i`ve seen the damage from this ignorance way too many times,,, there really is a few reasons why theyre there.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

And yet, in 50 years of running a Mini I've not had a problem with ditching both .... and I've never (as in "not ever") even heard of anyone who's had a problem.

I do know of cars that have had problems when the throw out nuts get loose and close up.... and mal adjusted clutches with the spring fitted....

You pays your money and takes your chances....

Cheers, Ian

I keep quiet about the "no spring" and "no throwout stop nuts" debate, but I agree with Matt (and I'll stand behind him while other people throw stones) - my clutch is excellent and I have both fitted

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

If the nuts are fitted correctly then there will be NO issue with clutch operation. The spring just holds the throw out bearing off the spinning pressure plate. Bearings are crap enough these days without having to spin all day...

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

If the anti throw out nuts get loose the worst that can happen is a broken clutch arm. I’d rather that than destroy a motor.

If the nuts are tightened correctly they should not come loose.

The people who designed the engine were not stupid and the nuts are not there for decoration.

For many years I taught abseiling. In all my years I never had or knew of anyone having a complete gear failure and falling.

So why did I bother using an additional safety line??




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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Good analogy, Phill. Over a decade in retirement and I still have strong memories of some work topics, in this case risk management. It involves predicting the likelihood of an event occurring and the consequences should it occur. Those that are likely to happen and the consequences significant should be treated first to reduce the risk, then the others. The aim is to reduce the likelihood and/or reduce the consequences.

Phill - the likelihood of gear failing in your setup seems low given how you managed safety but the consequences deadly, hence your safety line. In this case the consequences element has been reduced.

Sorry for the rant. I'm back in retirement mode now.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

The throw out nuts are a carry over from the spring type clutch diaphragm, and the early slave cylinder, that did not have a circlip fitted. Pumping the clutch quickly would not give the master cylinder enough chance to return the fluid and it would pump the slave cylinder piston all the way out. The overthrow nuts, adjusted to spec would stop this.
Once the circlip type slave cylinder was introduced, it stopped the possibility of overthrow and made the nuts redundant.
The only way they can overthrow is if the rod has been extended and the freeplay adjustment done up too tight, or the throw out thrust bearing spaced out from the carrier.
The spring is fitted to help return the arm, and it holds the thrust bearing away from the thrust plate.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

which brand of oil do you guys use on your throwout stop nuts and return springs?? I like to use MoCasPen Superslip Ultra 45/12

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thank you 850 man !!!

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That's why it's good to be.............ME