Hey Peeps,
Am pulling the steering rack out to refurbish. Does anyone know how to remove the Steering Rack Ball Joint Housing Locking Nut? I need to get this off in order to remove the steering rack from inside the housing.
Cheers,
B


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Zulu...

1967 mini Cooper S

I made a C spanner for the hardened ball cup.
But a quick solution is grind 2 flats on the ball cup and use a pipe wrench. Use another pipe wrench on the lock washer, which is soft.
When reassembling, swap the 2 lock washers so hopefully you can tab them locked in a different position. Otherwise buy new from Karcraft or Minikingdomonline. These parts on 65-78 Oz AYA6001 racks are bigger diameter than on UK racks.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Dr.
What are the holes?
B


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

_________________
Zulu...

1967 mini Cooper S

As Drmini said, the lock ring and the ball housing are meant to be removed/replaced with a C spanner, which has a small pin that fits into the holes for grip.
I used to do this job with stilsons (pipe wrench) but it's a bit messy.
Tool shops sell a range of C spanners. T & E make them, among others.
https://www.ebay.com.au/i/191306338499?chn=ps

The middle hole is where the lock ring has been punched into a recess on the rack. That piece needs to be drilled or dug out to allow the lock ring and ball housing to be separated. On reassembly, you have to tighten the lockring onto the ball housing and punch a piece of the lock ring to stop them from turning. That's why Dr said to swap the lock rings side to side because the damaged section of the lock ring could end up being in the same spot on reassembly and you have no metal to punch

Great info. Many thanks.
Q: would it be easier to take it to a workshop to get them to get it off?
Or, if I was to purchase a C spanner what mm dimension is required? (my rack is at home on the workbench and I'm in the office)...

_________________
Zulu...

1967 mini Cooper S

If just doing 1 rack I would use pipe wrenches as said. Not worth buying C spanners for 1.
When doing it up, tighten the ball socket until tierod doesn't move then undo by 1/12 of a turn. Hold it there and tighten locknut.

Check your PMs.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I thought about this post after I responded. While I don't want to discourage someone from having a go and learning from the experience as many of us have, the steering rack is an obvious safety issue and there are some steps needing care. At the least, you need to have a workshop manual to follow. Getting the right tension/preload on tierod, pinion and rack can be tricky, and you probably will need shims to set the pinion and rack preload.
Be guided by Dr's advice.

I will PM him more info. But I won't publish it on forums for the reasons you mention.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hallelujah

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Best to get the steering rack done correctly first time one way or another as we know it is a bugger of a job to get remove / refit to the car.

Info sent to Zulu.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.