timmy201 wrote:
Or even just a normal ring spanner for the bleed screws
Of course, but if a new one is needed it's worth the split ring as it is then dual purpose if work is needed on brake piping at a later time.
I didn't explain myself properly.
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| brake bleeding 1970 cs https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=97295 |
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| Author: | p7676 [ Fri Jun 01, 2018 5:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | brake bleeding 1970 cs |
Hello All When bleeding the brakes at what stage do I bleed the booster.? I have renewed all brake components so I hope they work. The hand brake adjustment is below half way on the nuts new cables and rear brakes have been adjusted is this normal ? TY Allen |
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| Author: | gtogreen1969 [ Fri Jun 01, 2018 5:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: brake bleeding 1970 cs |
If your using the standard 2 person method or using a one man bleeder i usually start by bench bleeding / priming the master cyl. That way your not introducing any air into the system. Then I bleed the booster. Then go to the rear left and start bleeding the wheel cylinders. You will get more air out of the wheel cylinders if the brakes are backed off and the pistons retracted. There will less surface area for air bubbles to hide. A vacuum bleeder is probably the best way to go. Other people do gravity bleeding as well. |
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| Author: | 1071 S [ Fri Jun 01, 2018 6:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: brake bleeding 1970 cs |
Yep, bench prime master cyl, then (with heaps of rags under front of booster) crack the nut at front of booster to clear air bubbles. Then move to the slaves..starting furthest from the master and moving to closest. The Ezi Bleed is good but I have found it difficult at times to get a good seal... make sure you have lots of rags around the master... The old fashioned method of bleeding into a glass jar half full of clean fluid using a clear tube works quite well. If you use a reasonable length of tube, a deep bottle half full of fluid and gentle pushing of the pedal (count 1,2 3 as you push the pedal down) you can do it single handed.... Give it several pumps and then check..if there is any air you will see the bubbles still in the tube. (Doesn't work with the booster of course where you will need a buddy to do the usual push /open/close/release process..) Cheers, Ian |
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| Author: | cooperess [ Thu Jul 28, 2022 5:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: brake bleeding 1970 cs |
What size spanner is used to bleed the rear brakes? I can't find one that fits in my tool box. |
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| Author: | timmy201 [ Thu Jul 28, 2022 7:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: brake bleeding 1970 cs |
The old ones were 1/4” and new ones 7mm https://minisport.com.au/mini-moke-blee ... der-1a4unf |
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| Author: | winabbey [ Thu Jul 28, 2022 8:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: brake bleeding 1970 cs |
If you intend purchasing a new spanner I suggest a split ring as less likelihood of it twisting on the bleed screw, especially old bleed screws. Here's an example (not a specific recommendation on supplier). https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192239705566 |
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| Author: | timmy201 [ Thu Jul 28, 2022 8:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: brake bleeding 1970 cs |
Or even just a normal ring spanner for the bleed screws |
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| Author: | winabbey [ Thu Jul 28, 2022 8:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: brake bleeding 1970 cs |
timmy201 wrote: Or even just a normal ring spanner for the bleed screws Of course, but if a new one is needed it's worth the split ring as it is then dual purpose if work is needed on brake piping at a later time. I didn't explain myself properly. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Jul 29, 2022 7:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: brake bleeding 1970 cs |
I use a socket to crack the rears, then a 4" shifter for bleeding. Don't overtighten them. I don't have a 7mm spanner... |
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