I am planning on fitting line fuses to cover the electrical units supplied by the light switch and ignition switch on a generator system.
I can work out the current draw for the lights but I'm not sure what fuse rating to use on the ignition switch because I don't know the approximate current draw for:
fuel pump; ignition coil; fuel gauge; and voltage stabiliser (for temp and fuel gauge).
Does anyone have an idea?

you could test them - just put your multimeter in line and it'll tell you - use the ammeter plug hole and high current setting (usually 10A)

fuel gauge is an interesting one because the current draw will vary depending on the amount of fuel in the tank - that's how it works

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Current = Voltage Divided by Resistance.
Wattage = Current X Voltage

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Keep in mind fuses are to protect the cabling not the load/equipment. Fuse should always be sized to the cable.


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Tim

Yes this is correct , fuses and circuit breakers are selected on the basis of the cable current carrying capacity ,to protect the cable from overcurrent and therefore overheating . For example its no good to have a 30 amp fuse in place if the current carrying capacity of the cable is only 15 amps ,if the load is say 20 amps or there is a partial short the cable will melt before the fuse can blow .There are lots of cable charts online just google Automotive wire size chart .

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1966 Morris Mini Minor
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Thanks for comments esp. relating to protecting wire capacity.
I want to fit fuses to the voltage control box on a generator charging system - especially on the 2 terminals at A1 which power light switch and ancillaries running off the ignition switch.
Was going to use modern in-line fuses but didn't want them to be visible at the control box terminals. So thought it might work if fitted under the dash ( out of sight but accessible) before the Brown/Blue wires reached the light and ignition switches. But then the fuses won't protect the wires before they reach the fuses.
Are there other alternatives?

After talking with my mate who knows minis better than me Rob said that the headlights were unfused and they really need an upgrade of a relay to prevent voltage drop in cable runs
causing dim headlights. I would never double a flowing current in a running circuit as a fuse rating for fear of melted cables.I am an electronics bloke .
You could do it like a Japanese car with multiple fuses one for each circuit .Its not original but its best.
Its like ive blown a fuse but it runs my blinkers and headlights so scratch the head where the problem lies.
My mini will have a relay fuse panel just left of the starter motor on the inner guard done how I want it.

Thanks Ian.
I have already cleaned and retaped all the wiring harness, including relays for headlights and driving lights (on inner guard) reversing light and tachometer. Didn't include multiple fusebox as it was a long way off original, but it is possibly the ultimate option.