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 Post subject: Head Lining replacement
PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 04, 2015 5:33 pm
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Location: Kellyville, NSW
Ok. So Id like to hear from anyone who has replaced a head lining themselves please... after speaking with a motor trimmer today I've been dissuaded from tackling this job myself.

Is it difficult, not worth the headache? Should I just pay the trimmer to do it?

I know there's probably a "How To" on it but I'm looking for personal experience please.

Cheers

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 7:25 pm 
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Location: Perth, W.A.
It's a lot easier with two people. You just have to take your time (with hair dryer at the ready).

If you can afford it I would get a good trimmer to do it.

Eiles


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 8:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:29 pm
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Hi Jenk
I did my Mini K myself recently and also my 850 which was a two piece lining.
I also did my vans but this was only a half lining.
It took me a day to do the Mini K and a day to do the 850 and i used lots of soft jaw clamps (from Bunnings)
If you had two people it would be a lot easier.
It is not a hard job but you do need to be patient and be prepared to re-adjust as required.
Both of mine turned out pretty good.
Cheers
Dave

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 9:56 pm 
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Location: Hobart, TAS
I did my '65 Cooper S headlining a couple of months ago. I also had been told it was a tough job but I like to have a crack at these things.

I bought a box of 100 x 19mm fold-back clips from Officeworks for about $12. I had the lining hanging from the support rods with a couple of fan heaters pointed at it for about an hour. Then starting at the middle of the back window and the middle of the front window I clipped right around the whole edge, adjusting till I was happy with how it looked. I think I left it like this until the following weekend then I match-marked right around at about 100mm centres. With fan heaters running again I released the rear edge and applied Sika contact adhesive to the inside edge of the lining and the car edge. After the glue goes off I then re-clipped the lining to the car making sure the match marks are aligned. I did the front next and then each side.

I was pretty pleased with the result.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 7:06 pm 
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Location: Camden
I have done 3 over the years and if you are a bit handy, it is not a tough job. Just take your time. Even glued sections can be peeled back and adjusted.
Go with above comments and methods. Use lots of clips.
There have been discussions about this before and I remember a Greg Coates suggestion to remove wrinkles: use a hair drier to warm up the area, then quench with cold water (same as heat-shrinking metal).
The biggest mistake I ever made was to trim the surplus material from around the rear window BEFORE fitting the rubber seal and glass, so there wasn't enough material to wrap around the cant rail and then fold around the flange of the window opening under the rubber seal.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 7:34 pm 
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Location: Kellyville, NSW
Some great advice/tips here.. thanks too all who took the time to share their experiences, might just give it a crack!

much appreciated.

cheers.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 10:33 pm 
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Yeah man, good result. Post pics ;)

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 1:07 pm 
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Location: Kellyville, NSW
Morbo28 wrote:
Yeah man, good result. Post pics ;)


Hey Morbo... will do mate.

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