Hi, just wondering if anyone's done this or knows what kind of a job it is? I understand that you'd want to do the entire engine/box together to save on major machining work.

Also, going from a 998 matic, are you best sticking to a 998 manual, or would you manage an 1100 or 1275 without too much additional work?

Cheers!

Here is an article written by our own Drmini (on this forum) http://members.tripod.com/austin_america/id82.html if you want to see how to convert the block to manual as the oil ways are different.

As for going from an auto to manual - I'll have to let someone else chime in as I've never personally done it.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

I wouldn't bother converting a 998 auto block to manual when there are piles of manual ones about.

As for a manual gearbox, any 4 synchro box, either remote shift or rod change will take a 1275 motor without mods. You will need a 1275 primary gear, and change the diff ratio to a 3.44 if not already.

You can use the `matic subframe (which is wider) if you pack the engine mounts up 3/8", but it's easier to fit a manual subby.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There is no need to change the diff ratio.

I found it easier to put a spacer behind the manual mounts in an auto subframe rather than change the whole subframe, re-pump the hydro and get an allignment.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Depends on diff ratio in the box you get. Most rodchange boxes here were 3.44, but a 4 synchro remote box could be 3.76, 3.64, or 3.44. or even 4.13 if out of a Moke.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So there is only a need if the box is out of a Moke.

_________________
The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Would you run a road 1275 with a 3.76, it would be geared like an 850.
OK for a track car or a streetbound racer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You'd be wasting your time swapping a 998 auto to manual, it wouldn't go any better, making it a bigger engine is the answer. If you get a complete motor/box, I think the seller would be able to tell you what it came out of. If not you can do a ratio check turning motor over, count turns. Other that that its the clutch m/c and shifter, but they're a straight bolt in job.

"Would you run a road 1275 with a 3.76,"

Yes. I ran my early Clubby fine with it.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

You will find the matic subframe is rather rare these days and hence you will find a willing buyer should you remove it.

I frequently see adds from people looking for a Matic subframe.

Cheers,
Brett.

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Brett Nicholson
Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
1973 LR Series 3 88
2007 LR Freelander 2

If you do go ahead and swap subframes, I know someone here in Melbourne who will buy the Auto frame off you.

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1970 MK II Cooper 'S' Supercharged 1310 with Megajolt.
1970 MK II Cooper 'S' Original resto project (SOLD)
1962 850 Original. (Under restoration)
1973 Leyland S (My first car. Now rebuilt, so my kids can learn how to drive a real car).
VMCI # 215.