SPRAY GUN TYPES TYPES
INTRO
I cant help you guys with any MINI problems but i can help with paint stuff. This is my first post so excuse me if it is in the wrong place.. or written in muppet for i am a painter and we all know what they are like.

I have seen Painters paint the best of paint jobs with average gear and of course the best of gear paint average paint jobs. If your gun is clean and kept in good condition you have a chance.
So take care of your gun. Don’t leave it soaking in thinner ever.
I will explain proper care if anyone is interested.
Also Spray Guns differ because of material and applications I will explain this below.
FEED TYPES.
Suction Pot Type Guns
Gun draws paint up from a paint pot below the gun using a venturi caused by the fluid tip
Pro’s Good all round guns, Heaps of choice, Usually a little cheaper than a gravity feed gun.
Con’s Sometimes paint pot scrapes roof if working on high vehicles. Weight if using all day. Usually an amount of paint cannot be sprayed and will remain in the pot.

Gravity Pot Type Guns
Gun draws paint from a paint pot above the gun using gravity
Pro’s Lots of very high end choices, Clearance of pot when painting roofs, easy clean up, Can spray 100% of paint in pot, Great guns for 2k clear application
Con’s Usually these are the most expensive of guns.

Bleeder Type Guns
Gun is feed paint from a pot that can be below or above the gun that is keep at higher pressure
Pro’s Can spray extremely thick materials.
Con’s Bastard guns made by Satan himself will lure you into saying nice things but will explode causing your overalls and everything you love to be covered in pink putty. If offered one for free don’t do it...Maybe kick the person just so he does not offer it to someone else.
Pressure Feed Guns
Gun has no pot relies on external device to feed paint.
Pro’s can be connected to pressure pots and pumps when spraying really large things like Ships, Planes
Con’s These guns look like normal suction guns but have NO ability to draw paint so can never be used with a suction pot.

AIRCAPS AND FLUID TIPS (SET UPS)
Before you run out and buy a gun consider what you want it for.
If you have already bought materials the PDS (product data sheet) will have all the tips sizes recommended. It is best to follow all these recommendations as very smart people have worked this stuff out for you.
But it normally goes like this
Primer
These guns have larger setups 1.8mm – 2.5mm and have a heavy spray pattern designed to build paint film thickness fast.
Basecoat and Clear Acrylic 1k 1.6mm to 2.0mm the spray pattern is not as heavy a primer gun but these guns are cannons and throw a heap of paint of fast.
Basecoat
2 pack 1.4mm is a good tip size for metallic’s mica and pearl type basecoats.
1.4 is a good size tip for basecoat. Metallics, solids, mica can all be sprayed through this tip.

Clearcoat
2 pack 1.3-1.4 mm for 2k clear.
No real need for large tip sizes here. You want good atomization of fluid to air.

Read the PDS, chat to your supplier, Try stuff out on test panels. I have never seen two painters agree on what is best. Whatever works for you is best.
WHAT BRAND IS BEST?.
The best gun is one you can get parts for. Can get advice and feel comfortable using. That’s it in a nutshell.
But here is some advice if you need it
Star brand guns Cheap basic spray gun. Parts are mostly available. a good choice if you don’t paint much.

DeVilbiss Brand Very good guns made extremely well. I still have a working JGA 502 after 25 years of service. Parts are available for a decent amount of time. Great value for money
Note Starting line is DeVilbiss's budget brand these can be a great buy.

IWATA Brand Very good guns made very well. Long lasting long wearing. W200 guns can cope being used every day in production type applications for years . These guns are easy to repair but parts are a bit dear. Good value for money.
Note AIRGUNZA brand is iwata's budget brand these are great choices for budget buyers

SATA Brand Excellent guns made with excellent materials made really well. These guns will last a long time if cared for. Parts are available but expensive. OK value for money you would need to use this gun for a long time to make the purchase price reasonable or use it everyday

BINKS Brand. I never seem to be able to get a good one. put in the made by Satan himself category.

WHAT IS THE LEAST AMOUNT OF KIT I COULD DO A DECENT RESPRAY WITH?
A Primer gun something like DEVILBISS-SGK-600PR-HVLP-SPRAY-GUN-2-0-NOZZLE-PRIMER-GUN-FREE-GAUGE- $220
A gun for colour and clear DEVILBISS-STARTING-LINE-SLG-G620-1-3MM-GRAVITY-SPRAY-GUN-600-ML-POT-NEW-$149
This combo or something like it would get you going.

Anyway
Hope this helps

Thanks for taking the time and effort to help us wanna -be painters!

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

You are welcome..once your shoes are covered in overspray you are a painter..

Thanks so much for sharing, very helpful. Good timing as I start to turn my attention to my next project, which I will spray myself this time. I hope you're around when I get started spraying. A lot of panel repair before I get to that point though.

Question - when doing a long term panel repair project, how would you recommend I keep the panels rust-free in between working on them? Primer? I've seen someone like Eastwood or POR sell a different product for that purpose. It's like an oil of some sort that is meant to be good.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Hi Morbo28 I am on this i will answer tommorrow

Thanks mate - I see p7676 does lots of panel work too so I'll get both of you advice

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Very helpful post, thanks very much.

I have a question about compressors. What's the minimum size you could get away with? Would 275L/min @ 100psi be enough?

I painted a Deluxe many years ago with my Dad's tired old thing and it really couldn't keep up the flow. I had to keep stopping for it to catch its breath.

thanks
Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Thanks for the post, you have just answered quite a few questions I had about painting. Later this year I'll hopefully be ready to paint my car.

Cheers Brad

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During the day I work on English designed cars & on my own time I work on English designed cars....

Hi Morbo 28
I think the Eastwood Zinc Rich Galvanize Aerosol is the product you are talking about. The oil product im not sure of.

You could choose to go two ways here I will explain them both.
1k acrylic system (no hardener can be baked but it will airdry)

For temporary repairs a etch primer is usually the go. The downside is its porous 90% of 1k primers are. So the part/car needs to be stored in a dry place. Most likely you will need to sand it off and check for surface rust and get to bare clean steel before you start painting if it was sitting for more the a few months.
1k process for bare steel goes deoxidine treatment, etch primer, primer (if needed spray putty and primer again) then colour.
I think the eastwood zinc galvanize spray may get in the way of the etch primer. So I would only use as a temporary solution until I was ready. Then sand it off and prime with recommended etch.

2k two pack system (has hardener needs oven)
2k process for bare steel goes deoxidine treatment, 2k etch primer, 2k primer filler ( if needed high build versions are available) then colour.
My advice is make a choice and stick to it. You like the original 1k finish that’s cool choose a brand and stick to their recommended 1k system. Don’t go PPG primer, Dupont basecoat and Concept clear.
Why? You are shelling out big money for paint and if the something did go wrong you would not be able to get help. PPG would wipe their hands of you as soon as they heard that you mixed brands. If you stuck to the specs at least you have a chance of getting help.

What I am planning to do
I am planning to use 2k because I prefer spraying it and I am rusty (read too lazy) at colour sanding.
I have been researching new 2k epoxy etch primer that go down before bog.
So my idea is panel by panel strip to bare steel get it 90% right then prime with 2K PPG Epoxy Urethane primer 410-48248
When the car is all done dummy fit and check repair. Redo until it’s a 100%. Sand down the epoxy with P180-240 then primer it proper with a high fill 2k primer.
What I am hoping for is a better protection while I am messing around fixing stuff. That it seals the panels moisture and rust.
I will tell you guys in 10 years.
Planning on trying POR 15 for the inside of panels and parts but to be honest I have never used POR products.
Anyway
You probably only wanted a yes/no answer and I gave you an essay

[quote="Timbo"]Very helpful post, thanks very much.
I have a question about compressors. What's the minimum size you could get away with? Would 275L/min @ 100psi be enough?

I hate it when people talk in inches... METRIC ROCKS... but i just worked out i am a hypocrite because i only know compressors in Cubic feet per minute (CFM)(15cfm is that 424 litres per minute?)
I have a 15cfm Mcmillan for home that needs a 15amp power plug.
It still struggles on hot days but i cant go bigger unless i can get three phase.
So a 14cfm would be smallest i would go for?
Maybe someone else on the forum has a smaller setup they can recommend?
Hope that helps
Good Luck with the respray

Womble that is the perfect answer, so good to have the reason behind the answer. It might sound silly but I never thought to get one panel right then 2k prime it then move onto the next. A much better solution.

I was thinking if I use 1k as I go, by the time I got to the end of the metal work I'd have to take the first repairs to bare metal again coz it's going to be a slow build. Then I though 2k is a lot of effort to paint the whole car if I'm going to have to keep taking it back to metal then keep doing repairs. It seems so obvious now you tell me how your doing it haha.

I'll find that wires oil stuff and post it up.

Thanks for taking the time to provide such a good answer.

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

In my experience, yes. I have a Peerless P17 (320 litre/min) which manages to keep its breath up during paint jobs OK.
Downside is you need a 15 amp power supply.

I bought a Peerless because its Oz made & parts/service are no problem. Two things I have learnt (i.e. have cost me $$$)- 1. release pressure in tank each day otherwise reed (?) valves will suffer 2. drain water from tank regularly.

It's worth buying a decent compressor, so you can use for air tools, sand blasters etc.

Just my 2 bob's worth.

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1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

This is a brilliant little post. Thanks for the details. esp. the brands of gun and nozzle sizes.
I would be interested in some comments about mixing paint - esp. thinning to get good flow finish, as my efforts seem to get better if I use more thinners than recommended on paint containers.

It all depends on what products you use, temperature and application amount. Trial and error really, practice on something else before doing the important bits!!

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

Fully agree with this Scoop. So many times doing small samples until you are happy with the result is the only way to go.

AEG163job thanks for your input i have not brought a new compressor for a while so i was not sure if the new ones keep up a bit better.

I thought about covering some of the safety aspects of painting next week. I probably should of started there.
Then we will tackle flow and finish for Bill B