I'm restoring a 1966 MK1 Cooper S. Thankfully most of the rust is below the sill line so it needs new boot floor, front to rear floors and sills.

I bought the blank sills from Minispares SA which are 4" wide. All the other sills I could find on the net seem also to be a minimum of 4".

The existing sills on the car are 3" wide. Is this the correct original size? If so I should be able to cut down the 4" sills to 3".

Are you meaning the total width including the 2 steps, from the vertical close panel (on the inside that holds the rubber/pinchweld dust seal) to the edge of the external seam flange (that has the plastic chrome finish mould)?
Just measured my '66 S: the front section in total, is 2-3/8 inches; middle (near box section) 2-5/16 inches; rear is 2 inches.
I cannot see how you can "cut down" the pre-folded sill sections if the width of each step is accurate, unless the outside flange has been left oversize to be trimmed later.
I can make slightly more accurate measurements, including the step dimensions, if that would help.
Realise the sill section curves slightly - is widest next to the boxed cross-section and narrows slightly in front and to the rear of the door opening.
Leave the floor section in place while you replace the sill, or vice versa, so you have a reference shape/dimensions to aim at.

It is the wide flange part I'm measuring, the part of the sill where it changes from the vertical and goes under the car. I presume that is the part of the sill they are referring to when they talk about 4" wide sills. I should have said that it was Minisport in SA I bought the sills from. They say that it fits all models so I presume one trims off the edge to suit.

I'd be interested to know what floors you use too. As far as I know full length hydro floors aren't available, only half length. Mine need doing so I am interested to know what you will do. Cheers.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

My 1966 has the English style floors without the hydro lines going all the way up the middle through the footwell rectangle. I think they changed over to the Australian style in 1968. Minisport SA has full length versions for the early style.

Do you mean the lower sill panel below the door step panel? if its the lower you can cut it down.

How complete was your cat and what month is it?

I have an April 66 and may have a couple questions.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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How do you identify the date of production? I took the year from where it lists in the cooper s register.

My restoration is a project a long time coming. I picked up the body in 1991 as a rolling shell, no motor but with front and rear subframes. The interior had been completed gutted, no wiring no headlining. I think the previous owner had stripped it out to go racing. It had the cuts made to the speedo hole for bending back the metal to fit a weber. Someone had also taken to the bottom of the boot floor with a cold chisel to cut out the metal reinforcement plates above the rear bump stops, presumably to lower the ride height on the hydrolastic suspension. A somewhat drastic solution.

If you don't have a passport to service drivers handbook or purchase documents then the closest to a build date will be to compare your cars chassis number with others on the register with a date attached to them.

Mid 800's are Jan66, Mid 1800's are Dec 66. They made about 100 per month so you should be able to get it within a month or 2.

Looking forward to seeing the resto.

Thanks for info re floor. Didn't know that, cheers.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

Make sure you know how to fit these panels. I used to install them using oxy acet welding,now I only use MIG welding. You will have to pull the curve into the sill panel use vise grips, edge welding on the body to sill flange is ok.I find it is better to cut a small triangle out of the body flange about 4 mm wide turn the welder up and stagger the welds .Also make sure the bottom of the floor is straight if not use a brikies bolster and large ball pein to get it straight use small self tappers to hold sill in place. If you have to use any body filler make sure that you wipe the panel with grease and wax remover before applying the filler your hands can start rust on the panel perspiration contains salt which will rust the panel under the filler. I have seen this many times.
If you have depression or you are in a recession always keep you Mini in your possession.
P7676 good luck and trial fit all panels it reduces stuff ups.I have just replaced most panels on my 1970 cooper S epoxy primer PPG paint jet red Half an egg cup of filler was used on the car, took me a lot of time.
P7676

I note you say that you have to pull the curve into the sill panel. I ran a straightedge on the sides of my sills and they are both raised in the middle by about 1cm. Was this the way they came from the factory or has the car become wider in the middle with age (much like my waistline)? I can't see how you could weld on those large 8" oversills as they do in the UK unless the sill was straight.

As I am also replacing the floors and inner sills as well as the crossmember, would it be better to free the sills from the floor and pull the door frames inwards to straighten them so they match the new straight sill? I would still check to see if the door fits evenly before welding.

I would never use the over sills no one makes proper aus sills and yes they are wider in the middle and the part that you weld to the floor that has the drains and jacking point in is straight I have made mine correct for a couple of projects for original purposes but if originality ain't essential i would use rover 6 vent sills

Don't straighten the car as you are suggesting your doors won't fit and you will run i t all sorts of problems

Some years ago I bought a 1metre section of minisport SA sill to repair my sills and maintain the curve. This was because I had seen one with the straight sill in place. To be honest it looked awful. Unfortunately the vertical section did not match the existing sills. Tony was great he checked and over the years tooling had crept unnoticed as they don't repair just replace. He replaced my sill section. Long way of saying maintain the curve.

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Mk 1 Cooper S 1965
If you could erase all your mistakes of the past
You would also erase the wisdom of your present
Remember the lesson not the disappointment.

After checking on the net I now understand. Heritage and sills from other suppliers come already curved to suit. The sills I picked up are blank and straight so you modify them to suit. I think I'll pick up the heritage sills.