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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 2:44 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2006 9:22 pm
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Location: Port Macquarie, Mid North Coast, NSW
The basic question is in the subject

The details are below

My mini has a 1500cc OHC "E series" motor.

The motor was recently apart, put back together with a new refurbished head, bigger pistons and rings, etc. due to a valve snapping off the valve stem on cylinder 3 and making a right mess of everything in its path.

Before the catastrophic failure the motor ran purrfectly fine. After putting everything back together and firing it up, it idled and free revved just like before, if not better. Unfortunately, when we went to drive it, it would miss really badly under load and it's fouling all the plugs.

While the motor was out, only 2 things were changed that weren't the motor itself. The distributor housing was rotated 180* to locate it in the correct direction [(It was annoying my dad) distributor is a 29D with the forked style drive gear], and one of the webers on the manifold were pulled off and stripped and put back together.

We've checked vacuum leaks, bad gaskets, lead configuration, firing order, plugs, valve clearance...

When the plug lead is disconnected from cylinder 4 there is not much noticeable change to idle, cylinder 2 and 3 individually almost stall the motor, and cylinder 1 is not quite as bad as 4, but not quite as noticeable as 2 and 3.

We have taken the electronic ignition module out of the distributor and gone back to points, no difference, swapped caps with a spare I had, no difference, swapped leads, no difference, put a brand new coil on, no difference, changed plugs and gapped them differently, no difference.

It was when we put the new coil in that we realised we had the distributor wired up to the positive side of the coil, so we wired it up the correct way with the new coil in, and no difference. Could we have fried the points and the electronic ignition module having it wired to the wrong side of the coil?

We then realised later that day that the electronic fuel pump wasn't running when the car was running for some reason, so joined the wires on the manual fuel primer switch that I have installed to make it run on ignition, and still no difference.

The motor is coming out again soon to replace the rear crank seal as it is leaking, so we will be going over everything again... But I'd really like to have the miss fixed before we put it all back together to avoid another episode of motor out and motor in.

Any advice would be awesome!

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 4:33 pm 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
nah, wouldn't cause the issue you've described, I reckon if you'd fried anything then it'd be properly dead. A coil is a transformer, it doesn't care that much which way around it is

With #4, I'd be doing a compression test, swapping plugs and leads around - it sounds like it's just not firing, or compression is escaping

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 4:38 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Port Macquarie, Mid North Coast, NSW
Did compression tester on all 4 cylinders. Forgot to add that. All around 130psi. Also swapped leads and plugs around and made no difference. Dad's on the assumption that it's something to do with the intake setup now, but I still feel it's spark related somehow.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 5:06 pm 
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sorry, I read the whole post and forgot what was in the middle... tried the condenser?

article: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 11:09 am 
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incorrect polarity on the coil only produces a weak spark

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