Claude needs them.

Where does one get them?

I tried Minisport. Where else as they don't have them.

Jaycar?

For tracing Shorts I use a 12 Volt 21 Watt bulb in a holder and connect the two leads from Bulb one to each end of the blown fuse. When a short is present the bulb will burn bright. as soon as short is removed the bulb will either go out or it will just glow a little depending on what current is flowing through that circuit. Minis as standard do not need 35 Amp fuses as they have nothing that draws that much current in either of the circuits. The lower the fuse the safer the system. The using of 35 Amp Fuses on Lucas systems came for the days when systems were running on Six Volts where Current was double of what it is on a 12 Systems. MR LUCAS never changed his stock of Fuses!
Every one has his opinion about things. From my personal experience I do not like to use the Bimetallic self resetting type of Circuit breakers as they keep switching on and off feeding current to the offending circuit till the wiring warms up and eventually burns. I have seen it happen too many times especially on american trucks.

I would rather use a fuse that blows instantly when there is a short present. A fuse that can feed a short for 10 seconds before it blows can cause a lot of damage. Any delays in blow and Heat will happen which is not very good for expensive wiring. A fast blowing fuse is so much cheaper. I am sure many people who paid money for wiring harnesses and electrical work on their cars will agree. A standard 15 amp fuse is ample for a standard Mini system.
Another explanation for not liking automatic re setting Bimetallic circuit breakers is that some people connect them in reverse. they are clearly marked which terminal is which usually the Battery stud is shorter. If you know how these things work or have ever opened one up you will never know this. They have a bimetallic strip with an end fixed to the insulated base market Acc and a contact at the other end which is constantly in contact with the other fixed contact at the other end marked Batt. The Bi metallic contact bends with heat (when high current is flowing through it) and pulls away from the other contact. The strip curls upwards. I have seen them when Battery is connected to the wrong terminal (ie the ACC terminal) when there is a short the strip heats up and curls up and welds itself to the metal housing and makes thing worse as you have battery feed going straight to earth. Then there is no protection from battery supply to circuit breaker and up it goes and lets the smoke out. I also like to add Fusible links to cars as it is always best to have a fuse at the beginning of the power source. I know that people say but that is not original. Burnt wiring is not original either.

For tracing Shorts I use a 12 Volt 21 Watt bulb in a holder and connect the two leads from Bulb one to each end of the blown fuse. When a short is present the bulb will burn bright. as soon as short is removed the bulb will either go out or it will just glow a little depending on what current is flowing through that circuit.

OK. So now I am a bit confused. Should I use 35 amp fuses or lower? If lower, what would folks recommend?
I am assuming that Claude being a positive earthing car is not relevant to fuse ampage....is that right?

Thanks again for any advice.


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