Always endeavouring to find a foolproof way to install this stuff without creating bulges in the bottom corners.
I'm usually pretty good with my hands but this cantankerous stuff never fails to get the better of me.
I really do believe it's more a quality matter than my ineptitude.
So, I went looking. Supplier M1 in the UK advises to "heat the trim up in a bucket of warm water to aid flexibility and ease of fitting"
Supplier M2 also in the UK says "Heat with a hair drier to help get it fit the bends on the bodywork (or carefully warm up slowly in oven to make supple) do not use hot water as it may cause discolouration. Originally BMC suggested a rivet at either end to stop moulding pealing (sic) off. Fit from rear forwards."
Not really helpful are they?
Both use the same part number GZF105 but don't disclose the name of their supplier. Is there an economy version and a premier version.
Anyone know of a source of really supple stuff?

Cheers

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33760

Morris 1100 talks about two brands down the bottom of the thread, maybe they can help!?

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Mini-less ... for now

When you say, they, are you referring to Morris1100 or the two un-named suppliers of two brands?

Ah just meant morris 1100 might be able to help via PM

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Mini-less ... for now

Someone on here suggested clipping them onto a length of flat steel sheet and leaving in the sun.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That was ozmin. I reckon that would work a treat combined with a bit of heat from a hair dryer, did for me. Don't get it too close though as it could bubble the chrome strip and your body paint.

For what it's worth here is my method of fitting the Cooper S type plastic chrome trim.
Step 1. Straighten the entire length of Trim. It must be one long straight length to make it manageable. I do this by carefully fitting it to a 5 meter long length of straight metal, for example a sheet of roofing iron or a long piece of guttering material or anything long enough with a straight edge that will allow it to bo pushed on and held straight. Once unrolled and fitted to the chosen piece of metal boil several pots of water and poure it over the entire length of the new trim. Allow it to cool and remove from the fixture.
You now have a nice straight piece of trim.
Step 2. Mark the centre of the trim and mark the lip it is to be fitted to at a point in the centre of the sill. This is the point at which you start fitting the strip.
Step 3. Push the new strip onto the lip at the marked points and work it on, carefully working toward the front and rear wheel arches.
Step 3. Now at the tight bend of the wheel arch and flare it must be very carefully worked up, out and around these corners. The length of the trim now will be very manageable and with carefull handling and working will fit around these bends . This is the hardest part of the process, takes time and patience. it also takes strong fingers and hands to mould the trim to fit the contours of the wheel arch bottom section. Do it in small bites and come back to it after it has taken a set then rework it. Dont move on from the bottom curve until you have that section completley right. Take your time and ease it on. NOTE Do not be tempted to use heat of any type here it will only make the trim kink and all will end in tears!
Step 4. Continue fitting around the rest of the wheel arch and trim off excess material from each end.
Step 5 Drill and fit 4 short pop rivets in the factory positions, the original holes can be seen trough the clear new trim. (from underneath)

Hope all this makes sence and is of some use to all. After making all the mistakes possible in the early days I have used this method with 100% sucess.

Dave

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Love it thanks Dave - bookmarked!

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Mini-less ... for now