1. My Facet fuel pump is bolted to the engine firewall between the washer bottle and the wiper motor and has been for years. I know this is incorrect, the pump is supposed to "push rather suck". But I've never had a problem, should I relocate it to the rear subframe (PIA) or take the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach.

2. I don't have an inertia switch fitted. What are your thoughts? Many people seem ambivalent about them.....

Cheers

Michael

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

They are quieter down the back.
Re the inertia switch, Cooper and S never got one.
Nor did all early UK Minis with the SU electric pump.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Kevin,

"Re the inertia switch, Cooper and S never got one.
Nor did all early UK Minis with the SU electric pump."

I hear you but that was nearly 50 years ago. Does that mean we shouldn't necessarily worry about it now? Do you have one fitted?

"They are quieter down the back"

I find the ticking of the pump comforting in a way. I know the thing is working! (I do have a light on the speedo to tell me it's powered up, the otherwise unused green one at the top).

Thanks

Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I wired the electric pump on our car with a PEEL LPG safety switch. It uses the tach pickup (coil negative) to trigger the relay, so the pump only has power when the engine is running. It also 'primes' the pump for 3 seconds when the switch first gets power (ignition turned on). It has a 12A relay inbuilt and was about $45 from memory.

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*witty signature*

Sapphire Blue Deluxe spread across three parts cars, two sheds and a driveway...

"...I hear you but that was nearly 50 years ago. Does that mean we shouldn't necessarily worry about it now?

I guess it depends how paranoid you are. When did you last hear of a crashed Mini bursting into flames? Ever? Modern cars with fuel injection systems running at huge pressures are somewhat different to a 3psi Mini setup.

"Do you have one fitted?"

No... and do you know anyone who has? No

Cheers, Ian

I think its not useful to resent the idea of a fuel cut out switch. There was indeed some time back a photo of one installed in the boot of a mini, but I can't recall exactly who that was, because I ended up buying one the same. No to mention the post by Matt saying he's installed one.

Just because something has not happened does not mean it can't happen. At least if you've installed a switch you have piece of mind that you've done what you can to prevent an avoidable problem in an accident. Quite sensible I would say.

You can do a "stall shut off system" just using a relay wired to the Alternator D+/Warning light terminal. The relay will turn on the pump when the Alternator is charging. But you will need to over ride the relay while cranking to prime the fuel up. I have done many cars like this. But do not attempt it if you don't know what you are doing.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Probably getting carried away, but I guess there are any number of ways of doing this. I decided to do the simplest: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Collision-Sa ... AC:AU:3160

Seems to be a microswitch activated by a weight in a well, sideways motion moves the weight upwards activating the switch which latches. Thus you need to physically reset it. Should it fail should be easy to bypass. Would only take a few minutes to install. Made in NZ, not China, if that helps.

I installed one. No great philosophical opinion one way or the other but it was relatively inexpensive. And it doubles as a cut off switch when I want the electrics on but not the pump (doing maintenance).

Edit:

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Thanks for your replies. What are peoples thoughts re my fuel pump location/ dilemma?

Thanks

Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I still reckon put down the back. On the subframe, use a centre zorst mount.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'd move it to the rear subframe myself and that's the typical location.

But it sounds like you'd prefer to keep it where it is, in which case go nuts and enjoy! If you have fuel problems you can always relocate it.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

I use a fuel pump controller / cut off from Revolution Electronics on all the cars I rewire,
Works off tacho signal, has internal circuit breaker, primes for a couple of seconds on ignition turn on, then when engine is running from pulses received from tacho input wire. If engine stops, pulse is cut off and kills the fuel pump.

http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Can this work on a car without a tacho or is there something else out there that basically does the same thing automatically ?

You could also rig up an oil pressure switch and a relay.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.