Whilst warming the car up this morning I heard it start to make an odd rattling noise. Had a look and the crank bolt has come out and was clattering around!
At a friends place so have no tools or manuals. Can someone please tell what size socket I need and what the bolt needs to be torqued up to.
I'm guessing the radiator has to come out, bugger it! I imagine I also have to remove the starter motor and chock the flywheel when torquing the bolt? Lucky it didn't happen on the road....

Thanks

Michael

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

1 5/16" (34mm will do in a pinch)

60 lbft

yep, radiator, starter motor...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

1-5/16" (or 33mm) socket.
80ft/lb I use. Books say 70.
Put Loctite 262 on the threads. I no longer use the lock washer, as they are useless Chinese cheese now.
Yes, radiator out and chock the ring gear.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks guys. There goes my afternoon bugger it. Was hoping to watch the cricket this afternoon so now that debacle is over I have no excuses to put the overalls on...
Locktite 262 is shall be, when I get some. The pulley itself doesn't seem to have moved so I'm hopeful nothing has been damaged. I'm also very grateful this didn't happen when I was pulling 7000 rpm yesterday. (was just checking the rev counter haha!). Actually I wanted to check the stealth box rpm limiter was doing it's job..

Thanks

Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

It would seem loctite 262 has been replaced by loctite 263?
The loctite website says "heat is required for removal", yikes!
Should that put me off using 263?
And when you use the stuff, how much do you put on the bolt? A few dabs or more than that?

Thanks

Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Nah don't need heat. Yes it is harder to remove.

Enough to cover the threads, if you put too much it will just squeeze out and be wasted. If you put too little it won't hold. Just a drop on two sides of the thread near the tip should be enough to spread over the whole thing as you wind it in.

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Thanks for that Lillee,
Just found out the largest socket we have is 1 1/4" and the loctite we have is 243 thread locker. Bugger again! Would it be appropriate (or stupid) if I used a large shifter (hate the things) and heave on it with the loctite? Bit hard to gauge 70 ft/lb with a shifter....

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Are you in Sydney Michael?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I was about to ask the same thing, and to suggest you put your location in your user profile so others are better placed to know if they can assist you with loan of tools or labour.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Just as a side note, (as the good Doc said) yes we also use loctite instead of the lock-washer
& yes approx 75Lbs tighten

But,,, (& here`s the side note)
Some people , when re-grinding & hardening their crankshafts during a re-build
they leave the crank pulley shims on the crank,,, so off the crank goes to be ground & hardened
& of course the pissy little thin shims get hardened too
now "IF" that`s happened , the shims will become very brittle & crack/break & fall out
then the front pulley becomes loose (of course)

Please remove all shims when sending cranks out to be hardened???!!!!
class dissmissed

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I'm in Bentleigh/ Caulfield in Melbourne, I'll update my profile.
The pulley itself seems to be firmly fixed to the crank. The bolt looks fine but the "lock" washer is completely rooted.
Re crankshaft shims and hardening, I don't know but the work was done by a well known reputable Mini engine shop... Do crankshafts necessarily get hardening treatment after a regrind?

Thanks

Michael

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Beg or borrow a socket. You won't get in there with a shifter.
Loctite 243 is too weak.
262 or 263 is the go. No heat needed to remove.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm in Carnegie. You are welcome to borrow my 1-5/16" socket and tension wrench if you plan to do it yourself.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks for the kind offer Winabbey, I may have to do that. I'll be doing all this myself. Finally got the bottom hose off, now struggling with removing the radiator with the bottom shroud in the way..

After 35 odd years of owning Mini's I dread dealing with radiators (and exhaust systems!).
The rally car I had 30 years ago had a "quick release" radiator. Wish I had that now, took less than 10 minutes to remove the lot. Why BMC couldn't design something like that is beyond me...

_________________
67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Did some earlier type crank bolts/ crank threads require the loctab as a spacer _ as the bolt could bottom out before tightening without one?>?? ..
again not easy as an engine in situ job, but it might tbe worth trying to clean out the thread ( yet another tool to go hunting, or at least check the bolt isn't too long for the crank thread... ( someone trying in vain to impart knowledge to me may have mentioned this, or indeed i may have got it all mixed up....) but worth ensuring the bolt doesn't come loose again