Hi All,

As the exchange rate is looking good at the moment I'm considering ordering a 7.5" disc brake kit. The question is, what extra parts would be worth getting at the same time? Some 5/8" rear wheel cylinders would be on the list, is there anything else that needs to be replaced or is worth doing while I'm pulling it all apart to fit?

E.g. doesn't look like brake hoses are included, is it worth getting uprated brake pads, dust shields, will master cylinder be OK, etc.

Thanks, Tim

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Just me, but I'd leave the dust shields off altogether. Also get some extra copper washers.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

I purchased a kit last year. I also bought the 5/8" rear cylinders. The kit was missing the grease nipples for the hubs. The brake hoses and copper washers. Get some extra shims for the ball joints. The standard pads were ok for daily driving but you may want green stuffs or similar for hard driving.

Yes lose the dust shield tinware it just restricts cooling and collects gravel.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

agree with gtogreen get the 5/8 cylinders, hoses, washers and shims.

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1972 Leyland Mini Clubman
2000 Honda CBR929RR

Throw in a set of Greenstuff pads as well, you wont buy cheaper in Aus

+1 for ball joint shims and brake hoses (they are different lengths to drums)

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1967 Morris Mini Deluxe

Definitely extra balljoint shims ( 2 lots of P/N 2A4242
BALL JOINT EXTRA SHIM KIT (6 SHIMS), as well as the front brake hoses as the drum ones are longer than the disc ones and can foul the axles. I got braided hoses for all 4 corners.
C-AJJ4030 BRAKE HOSE BRAIDED FRONT PAIR ONLY
C-AJJ4031 BRAKE HOSE BRAIDED REAR PAIR ONLY
From MiniSpares UK.

Do you wide drums on the rear?
The discs give a wider track on the front compared to standard drums.

Do you need to keep it under $1000?

A dial gauge, a large drill bit or grinding cone, a long steel pipe that will go over your breaker bar, a tin of Timkin bearing grease

Dial gauge to check that flange is seated correctly onto disc (had this problem today, 11 thou disc wobble)

Large drill bit or grinding cone to put a chamfer on drive flanges as the new ones don't have any at all where the wheel stud holes are, which causes above issue

Long steel pipe to do the hub nut up beyond 150ft/lbs to next available hole

Timkin bearing grease obviously for bearings

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Thanks for all the feedback! Ideally I'd keep it under $1000 to avoid any extra tax etc...

I've currently got flat drums and Contessas and I'd prefer not to grind down new calipers to make them fit or put flares on.. So I'd need to add on another set of wheels, new rear drums and wheel studs too. It all spirals out of control rather quickly doesn't it!

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My Contessas go over my calipers after a small amount of grinding down (almost just polishing). You might consider trying your Contessas over the calipers before forking out for a new set of wheels. Then, if that worked, you could "just" fork out for rear drums and wheel studs. Either way, you're going to be doing two orders if you want to keep both below the evil threshold.

Even if my Contessas did fit over the calipers they'd stick out too far as they are the drum offset ones.

Would standard 850 steel wheels fit over Cooper S 7.5" brakes?

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Aaahh!

Can't say about the steelies. Never tried that. I have MiniLites over my drum brakes in my other Mini (but they are Moke ones with the 3/4" step). These though are the same Minilites as are fitted to another Mini in the family with disc brakes.