so having swapped two used generators still with the same no charging problem, I have bit the bullet and purchased a "new" generator from Karcraft. It arrived without the belt pulley wheel (stupid me assumed it just would) and so, my question is, how the buggery do you get the wheel separated from the old generator to put on the new one?

and why also would my horn decide to pack it in at the same time too?

I have now installed a new fuse box and am hoping the new generator solves my problems, that is, when I get the wheel swapped over!!

as always, your help is appreciate

taaaaa

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1968 Mini-Matic

Are you sure the voltage regulator is OK?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

err no, but now have a new generator and fuse box at least so if it's neither of them after I work out how to remove the pulley wheel, after kicking the car, I will try replacing that

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1968 Mini-Matic

I only mention it because it seems a bit of a coincidence that 2 generators are cactus. Before removing the pulley and altering the new one to the point it can't be returned you might try a known good regulator with an existing generator.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

is there a way an idiot like me can test a regulator easy?

I have removed the generator and was told the chances of two 40+ year old generators being kaput are pretty good - the second one I put in is quite noisy

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1968 Mini-Matic

Had my red charge light stay on so spent ages testing new looking generator (installed by PO) and original regulator. Had a brand new regulator so tried that....no go. Bought a 1967 generator which tested OK versus the new one which was dead.

I had cleaned the contacts on the old and brand new regulators gently, trying not to remove material from the contacts, but trying to make the old and new coated contacts clean.....

Was at the stage when I was going to take the car to an auto-electrician (Bathurst was fast approaching) but saw a Youtube video where the guy basically cleaned the contacts with moderately rough grit paper.......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9G2qe7Pd60

It worked - have a 1967 generator and probably 1966 regulator that works perfectly.

Before you spend any more money, give it a go - costs nothing.

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

I take my generators to my local auto sparky and he chucks it on a machine and tests them for me for free.

Its like a 5min job to test them, If you take your two to them they should be able to test them for you for next to nothing

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thanks all - I'll check out that clip, cheers

I think I'll bite the bullet and get a new regulator regardless. Ive at least put in a new fuse box and would like to know that everything apart from the wiring is now "new" I use this Mini for everything and being an auto can't rely on a jump start if needed

Am still stumped as to how you separate the pulley wheel from the generator as the nut turns regardless on the spindle and I don't want to stuff up the fan blades. Is there a way to lock it so as to release the nut?

I'll get the generator(s) looked at too as if I can recon the original one, I'd like to be able to put it back and keep the new and the other as backups when needed

Note also - I hate dealing with electricity - this last week the hot water system carked it - turned out to be a dodgy off peak switch at the meter, then the charge light came on, so when I was swapping the generator I put the battery on charge - the battery charger died, then the whole street 10 mins later had a blackout (it wasn't me, an accident around the corner honest!) So, one sparky mate (who gladly did it for free) later, one helping hand from Graeme Lords Auto with a generator part swap (also free thank you Graeme), a few hours cleaning connectors whilst the power was out, one new battery charger, one new generator, one new fuse box and now it could just be a dodgy regulator !

ha ha ha ha, aaaaarrrgh

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1968 Mini-Matic

Why not diagnose the problem before replacing things. Where is the sense there? You could be introducing other problems to what you already have. Also Car could catch fire if you do something drastic especially when you have no idea what you are doing. Sorry I had to say it. What is it saving you?

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

I have an unwanted regulator if you'd like to swap it for beer-levels of money.

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

taa Stuwey, I might take you up on that offer if I don't get it going with a clean like on BBY775's you tube link

anyways, back to my original question which was. . .

Am still stumped as to how you separate the pulley wheel from the generator as the nut turns regardless on the spindle and I don't want to stuff up the fan blades. Is there a way to lock it so as to release the nut

or, should the generator have been supplied with said pulley??

taaaaaaaaa

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1968 Mini-Matic

You can get the nut off by using a rattle impact gun. and don't loose the woodruff key.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Maybe it's just the warning globe blown? Haha!

so then would it not be on at all if it was blown? thanks for the input

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1968 Mini-Matic

Yes it relies on it to provide current through the windings to get the thing started, or so I recall.
You have said that it isn't charging... is that because the light is on all the time? If so then yes generator or regulator, or fan belt.

If you don't ever get the light on then it could simply be a blown globe.

You can check the voltage across the battery when the motor is running above idle. If 14V or so it's likely being charged, if battery voltage remains around 12V then it is not being charged.

If you don't actually need a generator then use an alternator with built in regulator...much more straightforward and if it stops working just buy a new one..!