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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 7:50 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:10 pm
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Sigh I think I'm way out of my depth.
Got lucky with some help from mini gurus online and sorted a carby problem (for now).

Now lately I've noticed that a previously very 'high' clutch is now really loose feeling and needs a few pumps when I first start the car in order to change gears. Seems fine once I'm started though still engages much lower down than it used to.

A leak in the master cylinder or something? If I can have a fiddle myself I'm game - this is how I hope to learn!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 9:05 pm 
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1360cc
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Location: Special Tuning Sydney
Firstly, check the fluid level in your M/C. If it's been leaking badly then it should be lower than usual. I doubt it's leaking, sounds like there is either air in the system, the clutch hose is knackered or your M/C or slave cylinder needs rekitting.

First things first, try bleeding the slave cylinder first and see how you go. Get rid of all the air in the system.

Not sure if yours is a verto? I am guessing it is being a rover. It should look like this:

Image

Otherwise it will look something like this:

Image

In the top picture, see that bolt looking thing at the top with a spout in it? Put a rag underneath that to catch the fluid, get your wife to sit in the car, open that bleed nipple by undoing it slightly and get her to push down on the clutch without releasing it. Fluid should come out of it along with air. Do up the nipple again tight, then tell her to get off the pedal. Don't pump the pedal while the bleed nipple is open, that just sucks in air.

In the bottom picture the bleed nipple is on the right side of the slave cylinder.

Rinse and repeat several times until you see clean looking fluid. Do up the nipple tight again. The pedal should feel heavier and engage higher after that.

Don't forget to top up your Master Cylinder.

If this doesn't fix your problem, then it's going to be a bit more complicated....

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 5:37 am 
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848cc
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Absolute legend thanks so much for the detail.
And the opportunity to conscript family members (probably the daughter, like you!) into mini repairs.
Fingers crossed it works.

Would the fluid need a top up after this, and if so what does one buy?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 6:09 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Any regular dot 4 or dot 5 brake fluid is suitable. I buy whatever is cheapest at supercrap, it was Nulon last time.
Don't let the fluid get low or it'll suck air in.
If using fluid, check it's not dripping off the MC inside the car, check under carpet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 6:26 am 
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848cc
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Ripper thanks heaps. Looking forward to next bit of practical learning

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 6:52 am 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
drmini in aust wrote:
Any regular dot 4 or dot 5 brake fluid is suitable.



dot 3 or dot 4?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2016 7:12 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
3 or 4, 5 if not silicone is fine too.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.p ... oducts=695

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 3:45 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:10 pm
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Sigh no luck.
Did a bleed. Filled up fluid reservoir which was low, loosened nipple, press clutch and it sprayed fluid pretty much straight away. Seemed to come out around the nut rather than nipple.
Closed nut, release pedal, open and press etc. didn't seem to fix anything.
Took a pic earlier. It looks like fluid leaking around black rubber seal at base of slave cylinder?
Any help on what that could be would be great. I can't drive it as it is so this could be my first serious engine diy job.

For what it's worth, if I pump the clutch 5-6 times it seems to engage and I can get into gear, but it quickly seems to lose the benefit of whatever I've done and go back to square one

Thanks for any thoughts on next step!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 3:55 pm 
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Slave seal has had it. Rekit or replace.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 3:56 pm 
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848cc
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Thanks for that.
Which is easier for an idiot to do?
Any idea of cost?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 4:09 pm 
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Simple to replace for most people that are handy with a spanner. Kits are around $10 but you need to check the bore and re-hone. New cylinders start at $50 on ebay or $70 at the mini shops.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 4:23 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Thanks very much. About the only tool I have is a spanner!
Not feeling too brave about a honing a bore (?!) but if I can swap one in then I'm happy.
Will scour the net for a guide, or I think I have the Haynes manual somewhere.

Thank you again!

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 7:17 pm 
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998cc
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Here's one
http://minikingdomonline.com.au/product ... to-clutch/

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 7:39 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Sydney, NSW
Brilliant thanks for the link.
Reading the threads here, there's a view that a replacement might actually not be as good and that a repair kit is a better idea.
I didn't realise the honing was basically just sanding the inside of the cylinder to make sure it's smooth and any rust patches are gone. Might be something I should do instead.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 8:52 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:20 pm
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Location: Victoria
Yep, honing is pretty simple, but if the cylinder is pitted, you're wasting your time, doesn't take much of a pit to bugger the cylinder up. If you do hone though, I'd go round and round not in and out with fine wet and dry. This stops tracking in the cylinder and makes a better seal.

For the price though, I'd be wacking a new one in. Peace of mind.


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