Firstly, my apologies for starting a new topic on this. I just thought it would save people trawling through 15 pages of the original one.

To summarize, it was a breeze.

The hardest bit was removing the pin at the base of my 49 year old 23D distributor. It took WAY more force than I was comfortable with but it came out in the end. Securing the advance plates was easy as was fitting the electronic bits in the dizzy. It fired up first time and idled! No jiggling the throttle for a few minutes to get it to idle. I even took it for a drive as was with no advance and it went surprisingly well!
Hooking up the stealth box was straightforward, just had to solder up some extension leads and route the cables through the firewall, easy.
I used a basic advance curve: 5 degrees at 500 rpm, 10 at 1000 rpm, 20@2000 rpm and all in 30@4000 rpm. Fired it up and took it for a run. The difference was remarkable, goes like a scalded cat and no sign of detonation (using 98 RON fuel). Can plant the foot at 2500 rpm in 4th, ditto, no sign of detonation. I don't think I'll be experimenting with the advance curve, I'm happy with the way it is.
I'm converted!
Many thanks to Convertible Mini, Low and Blown, the Doc and others who gave me their advice.

Cheers

Michael

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I've got mine on the shelf ready to go in, hopefully mine goes as smoothly as yours!

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1/2 of mine is on the shelf, the module is in I just haven't ever got around to connecting the box or locking out the dizzy.

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

For those of us who want the reliability and performance the Stealth apparently provides but are fanatical on visual originality can someone explain (or show) the wiring to and from the distributor and the black box. What are the obvious indicators that the ignition system is not original. In my case it will be a MK II S Lucas 29D4 dizzy.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

The wiring is in the thread below. Essentially you are breaking the direct link between the (-) coil post and the distributor and putting the blackbox in the middle. Someone paying close attention might notice the wire missing, and two wires running into the loom. If you have a tacho fitted already chances are you'll have most of the wires you need.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=83483

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Thanks timmy201.

Can I use the existing standard coil?

I have a Smiths Impulse tacho. The white pulse lead already goes from the dizzy to the tacho and back to the coil. Would I just connect the black box in series on this lead?

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Winabbey, I'm using an ancient GT40 coil. Coil resistance must be > 3 ohms according to Stealth box instructions..

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I had a brand new GT40 (a week old) when i installed the black box but I had a miss fire that I just couldn't find so I gave up and bought another coil an intermotor and it solved my miss issue

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1968 Morris Mini Cooper S

Lillee had the same problem. So he fitted a Pertronix 3 ohm coil. OK now. Must be a bad batch of GT40 coils about.

BTW my stealth box has been installed for over 18 months now, is working fine.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Doc,
I think you're right about a bad batch of GT40's. Mine is not pretty to look at, it's been around, a bit battered and I dug it out of a box of stuff that's 40 odd years old. It works fine.
I was expecting the car to go much harder but was not expecting the great idle. Is that because the box puts out much higher voltages at the plugs?

Cheers

Michael

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

I'm about to wire mine up today and see how it goes, Dr Mini has been a big help to me with this.
A big thank you to Dr Mini, Phillb and oldblade for all your help

I think it's due to the more accurate timing between cylinders, compared to having points, a cam and worn dizzy bushes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My experience was good
only downside was getting a computer to work with the program
Other than that very straight forward to fit and mounted the module under the dash for protection and it cant even be seen
Even had a forum member come forward with a 29D4 cooper S dizzy for parts needed to fix mine as it had been modified to fit another ignition module
Just waiting to get my laptop fixed so i can adjust the advance curve a little

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1970 MK2 Cooper S

Its about time they updated their software to work with Windows 10 and a Mac. Not everybody has the nouse to hack their way into recent machines.
So I'm running it on an ancient XP PC in the garage, with 20ft of USB cable.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I bought an ancient laptop from a mate for $20 just for this task

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K