Hi All, long time lurker, first time poster...Working on a 76 Clubman.

I'm trying to replace the clutch arm and plunger/thrust bearing however can't for the life of me figure out how to get the wok off
while the engine is still in the car. I've read a number of posts that state the bolt at the 7 o'clock position can be tricky, but I'm having
more difficulty with the bottom two and the subframe being in the way - what magic trick am I missing to get to these bolts?

Cheers, Matt.

Had the wok off on the LS for just this reason. Cant exactly remember if we had to unbolt the engine mount and jack the motor up a bit.
Only had an issue with the 7 o'clock bolt. The rest weren't a problem.
Definitely do-able in situ.

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'78 1275 LS (Under Repair, Dependant #1's car)
'72 GT Powered Clubman (Mine)... Under (re) construction

Cheers 78Clubbie - I have watched a how-to vid that had the egnine mounts unbolted as well, but I'm also having issues getting to the engine mount..I guess everything is cramped but wondering if there is some special tool I'm missing, or maybe just an extra set of hands is the answer?

Undo the 2 engine mount bolts from the wheel well side. Take the weight of the gearbox/engine. but dont lift, so that the bolts can undo freely.
( My mounts have captive nuts, yours may not, that will make it harder )

Should be pretty straightforward. If you cant get to the nuts and they aren't captive, I'll leave an explanation/method to someone else. (And suggest that you change the mounts while you think of it.)

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'78 1275 LS (Under Repair, Dependant #1's car)
'72 GT Powered Clubman (Mine)... Under (re) construction

Ahhh, yeah my mounts do no have captive nuts, that *would* make it a lot easier! Cheers for the advice though!

I leave the 7 o'clock bolt out when reassembling. Has been good for 40 years.
Just finalising a complete rebuild and have continued to leave this bolt out. For the bottom 2, I reshaped a 1/2 inch ring spanner to suit the angle from beneath. I still use the non captive nut mounts but when reinstalling, wrap a piece of welding wire under the head of the bolt, jiggle it in, put the washer/nut on loosly, then pull on the wire to straighten the loop out, then remove. There maybe other ways, but this works for me.

Cheers for that I'll have to give it a go! Appreciate the advice on leaving out the 7 o'clock bolt, if/when i beat this issue I'll be sure to leave it out.

Wrap a couple of layers of tissue paper over the nut, jam it in the ring spanner and insert the bolt from inside the guard. Tighten up, remove ring spanner and wipe hands clean with the remaining tissue

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

did anyone mention unbolting the top engine steady from the motor?

weld the nuts to the mount while it's off...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Thanks Phil & Simon, appreciate the extra advice. Looks like this will have to be a weekend job so I'll report back once I've had another crack it!

Don't forget to replace the earth strap!

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Instead of leaving the 7 o'clock bolt out you can mod the cover, but probably unnecessary unless you're planning on racing like me

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Too many cars, and too little time.

There is way too much aluminium left in that clutch cover awdmoke.

A Bonny and Clyde mini !

Holy Wok!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K