This is being posted on behalf of another member.

Original Concentric oil pumps for the Cooper S (part AEG410) are no longer available new. In response an Australian Mini parts supplier is converting the pump for the smaller capacity A series (part GLP142) by swapping the central shaft for a longer one that matches the Cooper S pin drive camshaft.

A batch of the converted pumps have been found by an Ausmini member to have a shaft that extends approx. 3 mm further out than an original Cooper S pump. This was discovered accidentally when assembling the engine without the pistons fitted. On this occasion the engine would not turn over because the longer oil pump spindle was forcing the camshaft against the thrust washer. Normally the pump is fitted last and one would simply turn the engine over using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut. Any resistance on the camshaft thrust washer caused by the longer shaft would probably not be noticed. A problem wouldn't arise until the engine had been running for a period, when it would be reasonable to assume that the camshaft thrust had just failed. Friction at both ends of the camshaft and oil pump would result in metal particles causing damage to the engine bearings, crank, etc .

Below is a comparison of an original genuine Concentric brand Cooper "S" pump (on the bottom) and the replacement containing the longer pin pressed into a standard 850/998/1098 pump supplied by the Australian retailer (on the top). The original concentric oil pump's shaft is 27 mm, compared to the replacement at 30.85 mm, so the replacement shaft is around 3 mm longer.

It would help the member to know if others have experienced this problem and assumed it was related to something other than a faulty oil pump.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Yes, I have had this problem more than once in recent times. Got a different brand pump & problem gone.

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A proper mini redlines at 13 500 rpm

Which brand was that then?

or get a spade drive oil pump and have one of Dr Mini's adapters welded into the cam... then next time you rebuild you can get another spade drive pump which are easy to get, and can be purchased in higher volume designs (metro turbo etc.)

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

is this any good?
http://www.7ent.com/products/oil-pump-p ... eg410.html

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Holy cow TK! That is expensive!!

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67 Deluxe
Dry suspension
1293cc, 11:1 comp, RE 282 camshaft, 45 Weber, extractors etc
4 synchro close ratio gbox
Cooper S brakes, no booster
Stealth box, as Doc says "goes harder and idles!"
RH tank cos I needed it crossing the Nullarbor etc..

Just to be clear, this discussion wasn't meant to be about "which is the best oil pump to use". It was to seek comment about the apparent batch of problematical pumps that were modified and sold locally.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Doug, you opened a can of worms. Lots of us Cooper S engine owners are now very interested in what you have said and probably a bit concerned.

Were these pumps modified locally or did they come from overseas?

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

but this is an internet forum.... they're meant to encourage people to go off on wild tangents and push their ideas!!

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Simon - even though a bit tongue in cheek, I agree with your comment. It's always great for any discussion to take place. It means a healthy forum.

In any case, I may not have worded my earlier statement correctly. I just didn't want the original question to be lost in a separate discussion.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

A local modification on a UK sourced pump, as I understand it. The shaft is removed and replaced by a longer one so it suits a Cooper S engine.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I fitted one of these modified pumps a year ago and it fitted fine.
You can now get an AEG410 billet pump from Karcraft, mkol ans others but the price is well north of $300.

The 1275A+ slot drive pumps are good, steel backed, and cheap. But you do have to drill and tap another hole in an S block.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Wow! This is serious ,if it is correct.Chances are though ,it would be a toss up as to whether it would wear the back out of the pump out first,being the softer metal,which would result in the filings being pumped directly into the bearings both cam and crank or the camshaft thrust plate would s*** itself. If this observation is correct,this silent problem probably would not arise for sometime ,possibly showing up with a drop in oil pressure first.Worth checking on assembly before installing the pistons, as most people install the Oil Pump last and then turn it over using a lever/spanner either on the crank.Although,if those pics are correct,sounds like it may be a problem.

The assumption is that it involves a batch of pumps, not all. That's why the question was asked here, to see if others have had a problem not realising it may have been because of the pump symptoms described.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I realise that, was just pointing out that they did not have the problem back then.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.