I've bought an electronic ignition kit to convert my current distributor from points to electronic.
Reading the installation document it recommends that I change the coil to one made by the same company as the kit I've purchased. I think my current coil is a fairly new gt 440. Is there any real need to change the existing coil?

Also, is there anything else I should change/ upgrade while I'm at it?

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It will work fine with your existing coil, to state otherwise is fishing for another sale.
It should come with a new rotor, but I would fit a new dizzy cap too. And a new set of inductive core plug leads. They don't deteriorate with age like cheapo ones, which use graphited string as a core.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Would some systems need/recommend a resistor?

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Resistors were used because of the limitations from points.

Car makers wanted more energy at the spark plug for cold starts, but standard points would melt with a high energy coil because of the higher current needed to run them. So the solution was a resistor in line with the 12V to the high energy coil for normal running, but would briefly be bypassed at startup to give a little more energy. The short amount of time it was bypassed would not allow the points to heat up.

A resistor coil is kind of a reverse logic. If you have a resistor coil, it means you need to have the resistor set up or you will melt your points, or burn your module out. (Some can handle a HE coil however, but you have to be sure of this).

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Ah cool thanks my ignition knowledge is pretty limited, thanks for the info

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Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Make sure you check the Coil primary resistance and has to be above 1.5 Ohms to be safe. Some Electronic Ignition kits do not like low resistance coils. They blow quicker than a fuse. Do not take the chance even if the coil "LOOKS NEW" Test it. Better to be safe than sorry. And replace one thing at a time so you don't get confused if something does not work. Ignition kit first then the other bits mentioned above one at a time. Make sure you also check that the Coil has the Ignition feed wire connected to the + terminal. Good luck and enjoy points free driving.

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DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"

Anytime. Points are kinda mysterious.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.