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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 5:53 pm 
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I've got a couple of dents I'm going to remove from a door pocket and l want to remove it from the door to work on, can l get some pointers! It seems to only be secured at the corners and at the moment I have carefully drilled with a 5mm bit in what l think is a spot weld, is that drill bit large enough? I'm also struggling trying to identify the spot welds any tips? I've invested in a set of spot weld drill bits, hoping to get them sometime this week

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 6:45 pm 
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I have only just got around to removing door pockets and I can let you know there is more than just couple of spot welds on the corners :wink: sand down the lip and run your finger along or use a light you will spot the tell tale markings, either that or as you gently start to pry it up you will find where it is held and can drill as you go?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 7:04 pm 
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Weird gently prying with a screwdriver there isn't any spot welds along the bottom only at the corners and sides, must of been some of that bmc quality control,what size drill bit did u find the best?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 7:26 pm 
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davem wrote:
Weird gently prying with a screwdriver there isn't any spot welds along the bottom only at the corners and sides, must of been some of that bmc quality control,what size drill bit did u find the best?


tbh I can't remember I just grabbed it out of the toolbox :roll: but it was a spotweld removal bit not a drill bit, you will most likely punch holes straight through if you use a normal drill bit. Even using a spot weld bit I still managed to put holes through as you can see in the pic with the pocket removed


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 7:31 pm 
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Here is another set of pockets so you can see the weld pattern is not uniform it really depends on what type of day the guy is having I guess?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 8:44 pm 
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Most of my spot weld drills are 6mm, 7mm, 7.5mm and 8mm. The 7.5mm is the one I use most.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2014 9:04 pm 
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Cheers guy managed to get them off with a normal drill bit and a light tap of a chisel there was only maybe 6 or 7 spot welds must of been a Friday arvo when they made it!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 8:13 pm 
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Ok round 2! Practice piece tell me what you think good and bad, the patch slightly became convexed, l only noticed this when l finished the patch with a straight edge. What caused this to much heat or shrinking of the metal? I managed to straighten it out with a dolly

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Thanks again to everyone which has contributed to this thread thus far. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 8:29 pm 
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The heat will make it move all over the place.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:27 pm 
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An old trick I was taught at my car resto course was too weld then tap with hammer weld tap etc all supported by a Dolly.

This shrinks any expansion caused by the heat from the welder.

Also let your welds cool to the touch before you do the next one.

Also you can put a heat spot in the middle of the buldge then tap with a wodden Mallet supported by a lead dolly
Its a buldge on the other side

Also what happened to the panel is normal when welding panel steel. It gets worse with small patches.

If you could tap it flat then you did a good job of controlling the heat


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 9:20 pm 
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Looks micky mouse mate. Well done

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 9:55 pm 
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kiwiinwgtn wrote:
An old trick I was taught at my car resto course was too weld then tap with hammer weld tap etc all supported by a Dolly.

This shrinks any expansion caused by the heat from the welder.

Also let your welds cool to the touch before you do the next one.

Also you can put a heat spot in the middle of the buldge then tap with a wodden Mallet supported by a lead dolly
Its a buldge on the other side

Also what happened to the panel is normal when welding panel steel. It gets worse with small patches.

If you could tap it flat then you did a good job of controlling the heat



When you mean tap down the patch after a weld do you mean dolly off or dolly on? Thanks again everyone for the encouragement and advice keep it coming

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 8:15 pm 
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davem wrote:
kiwiinwgtn wrote:
An old trick I was taught at my car resto course was too weld then tap with hammer weld tap etc all supported by a Dolly.

This shrinks any expansion caused by the heat from the welder.

Also let your welds cool to the touch before you do the next one.

Also you can put a heat spot in the middle of the buldge then tap with a wodden Mallet supported by a lead dolly
Its a buldge on the other side

Also what happened to the panel is normal when welding panel steel. It gets worse with small patches.

If you could tap it flat then you did a good job of controlling the heat


On dolly. Weld needs to be hot when doing it.

Also when welding start on one edge weld. Tap. Go to the opposite side weld etc.

The trick is not to hard to split the weld.



When you mean tap down the patch after a weld do you mean dolly off or dolly on? Thanks again everyone for the encouragement and advice keep it coming


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