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Removal of bearings from clutch housing
https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80269		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  MattE [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Removal of bearings from clutch housing
Hello all.
Does anyone have a silver bullet for removal of the two bearings from the clutch housing - the shell for the first motion shaft bearing, and the needle roller for the idler bearing?
I've been told, and have been doing:
overnight in the freezer, then a firm tap on the ground;
a spell in the oven, then a firm tap on the ground;
whilst still hot from oven, lever with various tools (this yielded some success with the shell)

Other suggestions included welding a nut on/in, running a bead of weld around to shrink the bearing, big screwdriver on the needle roller (semi destructive).

I've visited Supercheap hunting for baby slide hammer or puller set, but so far no cigar.

They are a pain, that's for sure!

Did BMC have a specific tool for both jobs? Where are they all now!?

Thanks in advance.
Matt
Author:  Harley [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:57 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Removal of bearings from clutch housing
MattE wrote:
I've visited Supercheap hunting for baby slide hammer or puller set, but so far no cigar.


There's your first problem.
:lol:
Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:01 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Removal of bearings from clutch housing
MattE wrote:
Hello all.
Does anyone have a silver bullet for removal of the two bearings from the clutch housing - the shell for the first motion shaft bearing, and the needle roller for the idler bearing?
I've been told, and have been doing:
overnight in the freezer, then a firm tap on the ground;
a spell in the oven, then a firm tap on the ground;
whilst still hot from oven, lever with various tools (this yielded some success with the shell)

Other suggestions included welding a nut on/in, running a bead of weld around to shrink the bearing, big screwdriver on the needle roller (semi destructive).

I've visited Supercheap hunting for baby slide hammer or puller set, but so far no cigar.

They are a pain, that's for sure!

Did BMC have a specific tool for both jobs? Where are they all now!?

Thanks in advance.
Matt


I usually MIG weld a bolt into the idler gear one, and a bolt with BIG washer into the outrigger one.

I have seen people heat the housing with a gas torch then thump it on some wood, that works if the temp is right.

BMC had a service tool for this, it had an expanding collet which went behind the bearings and a threaded nut with handle to wind it out with.

I've not seen one for 40 years... but I bet a few people on here have it. The rest of us `make do' without it. :cry:
Author:  MattE [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
I know, I know.
The proper tool shops are a long drive across town, so I thought I'd just start at SuperCrap - I was told they had a million piece puller kit for bugger all, but no, don't have them any more!
Author:  MattE [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Doc.
What happens once the bolts are welded in?
Attach a nut somehow, or use the bolt as a lever point?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
MattE wrote:
Thanks Doc.
What happens once the bolts are welded in?
Attach a nut somehow, or use the bolt as a lever point?

I sit an 850 diff output flange over it, add a nut & washer, and wind it out.
Then, angle grind the bearing remains off the bolt ready for next time (I must have some Scottish in me). :lol:

Set the bolt vertical so the head is level with the top of the bearing, or a little lower.
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE MIG... keep the heat low and put 6 or 8 tack welds onto the case of the bearing & bolt head or washer.. don't burn the housing.

[edit] I use the 850 output flange because you can see what you are doing. It holds the bolt vertical at the right height, and you can get the MIG in both sides and put a couple of tacks on the bolt & idler bearing to hold it. Then lift the flange off and finish tacking.
Author:  MattE [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
Cool. Thanks Doc.
Was there bolt rationing when you was a wee lad?
Could explain it!
Very Scottish indeed....
Author:  Timbo [ Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
I recently removed the big one with the run-a-ring-of-weld-around-the-inside method, it worked a treat. I had a lot more trouble with the small one, I ended up grinding through it with a small stone in the dremel. You need plenty of time, steady hands and good eyes. I can't really recommend it.

Tim
Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Feb 07, 2013 8:03 am ]
Post subject: 
Just for fun I spent the last 20 mins heating one up with my Makita 500C hot air gun.
Nope, no joy even though I got it bloody hot. Looks like I'll be firing the MIG up, yet again...


[edit] I ran a bead round the outrigger bearing and it fell out. I had to weld a bolt into the idler gear needle bearing though, as usual.
Author:  Timbo [ Thu Feb 07, 2013 8:48 am ]
Post subject: 
For a bit of fun Guessworks show how it can be done with heat. Looks pretty agricultural. :lol:

http://www.guess-works.com/Tech/spigot.htm

Tim
Author:  MattE [ Thu Feb 07, 2013 4:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for that - my dad has a butane can torch like that, so I might as well see what happens with it.
According to one of Canberra's mini mechanics, that little bearing is a (insert colourful expletive!).
Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
MattE wrote:
Thanks for that - my dad has a butane can torch like that, so I might as well see what happens with it.
According to one of Canberra's mini mechanics, that little bearing is a (insert colourful expletive!).

Took me less than 5 mins to weld a bolt in and pull it out this arvo.
It took me longer to grind the @*^%(# bearing off the bolt so I can use it next time (the bolt, that is). :lol:

[edit] I'm talking here about the idler's needle bearing, not the outrigger/spigot bearing.
Author:  66S [ Fri Feb 08, 2013 6:15 am ]
Post subject: 
Sykes Pickavant make blind bearing poullers but you will need more than one to have a set.

If you don't have access to a welder, break the top ring from the bearing using a hammer and punch. Remove the rollers and, with a Dremel, grind almost through the bearing in opposite places and then break it out.

Al
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Feb 09, 2013 7:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Matt, I sent you a PM from a 3rd party who has the tools. :wink:
Author:  michaelb [ Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
I removed the bearing from the cover today. Took a few attempts to remove the bearing as the weld kept breaking :? Ended up breaking the bearing to pieces and grinding the outer casing. The ring for the output bearing was a little easier but it took a few attempts as my welds kept breaking :?
Next question is how do you get the new idler gear bearing into the casing without stuffing it up :?: ( like I just did :? ) I did have it in the freezer for a few hours to try and shrink it
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