Hello all.
Does anyone have a silver bullet for removal of the two bearings from the clutch housing - the shell for the first motion shaft bearing, and the needle roller for the idler bearing?
I've been told, and have been doing:
overnight in the freezer, then a firm tap on the ground;
a spell in the oven, then a firm tap on the ground;
whilst still hot from oven, lever with various tools (this yielded some success with the shell)

Other suggestions included welding a nut on/in, running a bead of weld around to shrink the bearing, big screwdriver on the needle roller (semi destructive).

I've visited Supercheap hunting for baby slide hammer or puller set, but so far no cigar.

They are a pain, that's for sure!

Did BMC have a specific tool for both jobs? Where are they all now!?

Thanks in advance.
Matt

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

There's your first problem.

I usually MIG weld a bolt into the idler gear one, and a bolt with BIG washer into the outrigger one.

I have seen people heat the housing with a gas torch then thump it on some wood, that works if the temp is right.

BMC had a service tool for this, it had an expanding collet which went behind the bearings and a threaded nut with handle to wind it out with.

I've not seen one for 40 years... but I bet a few people on here have it. The rest of us `make do' without it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I know, I know.
The proper tool shops are a long drive across town, so I thought I'd just start at SuperCrap - I was told they had a million piece puller kit for bugger all, but no, don't have them any more!

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

Thanks Doc.
What happens once the bolts are welded in?
Attach a nut somehow, or use the bolt as a lever point?

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

I sit an 850 diff output flange over it, add a nut & washer, and wind it out.
Then, angle grind the bearing remains off the bolt ready for next time (I must have some Scottish in me).

Set the bolt vertical so the head is level with the top of the bearing, or a little lower.
BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE MIG... keep the heat low and put 6 or 8 tack welds onto the case of the bearing & bolt head or washer.. don't burn the housing.

[edit] I use the 850 output flange because you can see what you are doing. It holds the bolt vertical at the right height, and you can get the MIG in both sides and put a couple of tacks on the bolt & idler bearing to hold it. Then lift the flange off and finish tacking.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool. Thanks Doc.
Was there bolt rationing when you was a wee lad?
Could explain it!
Very Scottish indeed....

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

I recently removed the big one with the run-a-ring-of-weld-around-the-inside method, it worked a treat. I had a lot more trouble with the small one, I ended up grinding through it with a small stone in the dremel. You need plenty of time, steady hands and good eyes. I can't really recommend it.

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Just for fun I spent the last 20 mins heating one up with my Makita 500C hot air gun.
Nope, no joy even though I got it bloody hot. Looks like I'll be firing the MIG up, yet again...


[edit] I ran a bead round the outrigger bearing and it fell out. I had to weld a bolt into the idler gear needle bearing though, as usual.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

For a bit of fun Guessworks show how it can be done with heat. Looks pretty agricultural.

http://www.guess-works.com/Tech/spigot.htm

Tim

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1951 Morris Commercial J Type Van
1955 BSA C11G
1961 Morris Mini Traveller
1969 Triumph TR6R
1977 Leyland Moke Californian

Thanks for that - my dad has a butane can torch like that, so I might as well see what happens with it.
According to one of Canberra's mini mechanics, that little bearing is a (insert colourful expletive!).

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'68 Deluxe w/Metro engine

Took me less than 5 mins to weld a bolt in and pull it out this arvo.
It took me longer to grind the @*^%(# bearing off the bolt so I can use it next time (the bolt, that is).

[edit] I'm talking here about the idler's needle bearing, not the outrigger/spigot bearing.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sykes Pickavant make blind bearing poullers but you will need more than one to have a set.

If you don't have access to a welder, break the top ring from the bearing using a hammer and punch. Remove the rollers and, with a Dremel, grind almost through the bearing in opposite places and then break it out.

Al

Matt, I sent you a PM from a 3rd party who has the tools.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I removed the bearing from the cover today. Took a few attempts to remove the bearing as the weld kept breaking Ended up breaking the bearing to pieces and grinding the outer casing. The ring for the output bearing was a little easier but it took a few attempts as my welds kept breaking
Next question is how do you get the new idler gear bearing into the casing without stuffing it up ( like I just did ) I did have it in the freezer for a few hours to try and shrink it

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S