kirby wrote:
Be sure to remove all the seam sealer and deadener lest moisture get trapped in there.
I'm pretty sure the acid does that for you..
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| chemical dipping -- quoted https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=71174 |
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| Author: | estapol [ Thu Jun 09, 2011 5:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | chemical dipping -- quoted |
Hey all Just rang Minus Paint in Adelaide to get a quote for dipping my shell. He said between 500-700. thats dipped, de-rusted and splashed up with some rust inhibitor, he'll etch prime all the boxed in parts for me for a bit extra. Just thought I'd share this info in case anyone else wants to get it done. I will repost some before and after pics and a solid price and evaluation when it gets done... waits bout a month and a half....... Cheers Hoba |
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:09 pm ] |
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It is a very attractive price, that is for sure, however I'd suggest you think it over very crefully before proceeding. Every car, without exception, I have seen done by dipping rusts out on all the spot welded Seams at a very fast rate. There just does not seem to be a way of getting all the 'dip' out from places like this. Have a chat to a vehicle restorer too and see what they say. |
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| Author: | kirby [ Fri Jun 10, 2011 8:55 pm ] |
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Be sure to remove all the seam sealer and deadener lest moisture get trapped in there. |
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| Author: | MrFail [ Sat Jun 11, 2011 7:13 pm ] |
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kirby wrote: Be sure to remove all the seam sealer and deadener lest moisture get trapped in there.
I'm pretty sure the acid does that for you..
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| Author: | Curly [ Sat Jun 11, 2011 7:58 pm ] |
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GT mowog wrote: It is a very attractive price, that is for sure, however I'd suggest you think it over very crefully before proceeding. Every car, without exception, I have seen done by dipping rusts out on all the spot welded Seams at a very fast rate. There just does not seem to be a way of getting all the 'dip' out from places like this. Have a chat to a vehicle restorer too and see what they say.
No trouble if you make the effort of neutralising the caustic dip by treating the bare metal shell with phosphoric acid. This will protect the shell from further oxidation and also 'etch' the surface lightly for better paint adhesion. I had my Group N Cooper S dipped in the early 90s and there's still no sign of rust in the seams or anywhere else. Guess this must be the exception 
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| Author: | estapol [ Sun Jun 12, 2011 2:35 pm ] |
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Yeah Ill definantly make sure the dude cleans it really thoroughly and treats the bare metal appropriateley afterwards. but thanks for the advice... |
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| Author: | GT mowog [ Sun Jun 12, 2011 5:19 pm ] |
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Curly wrote: Guess this must be the exception
Risky, highly risky
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| Author: | zulu_warrior1976 [ Thu Dec 27, 2012 7:10 pm ] |
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I'm thinking of going down this path with minus. How did it go? Any trouble? Good price? How did the final product turn out? |
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| Author: | brett [ Thu Dec 27, 2012 8:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
ReCooperation did that, and apparently still looks a $Million |
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| Author: | zulu_warrior1976 [ Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: chemical dipping -- quoted |
So the jury is out then. Some are giving examples of their own cars that are still rust free and other are saying it's risky. Which is it? |
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| Author: | minimans [ Fri Apr 28, 2017 12:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: chemical dipping -- quoted |
Its risky because your relying on the man that does the job to do it properly. If he has good references then all should be OK. Having said that I have all my restoration shells media blasted not dipped............ |
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| Author: | p7676 [ Fri Apr 28, 2017 4:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: chemical dipping -- quoted |
Chemical Dipping uses an alkaline solution it can cause problems in the future , in my opinion grit blasting is the way to go.Also don't waste your money on etch primer ,the only way to go is 2 pack epoxy undercoat .Also body fillers can be used over the epoxy. My S should last 500 years because I use modern materials. P7676 |
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| Author: | Aussie Brian [ Fri Apr 28, 2017 5:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: chemical dipping -- quoted |
p7676 wrote: Chemical Dipping uses an alkaline solution it can cause problems in the future , in my opinion grit blasting is the way to go.Also don't waste your money on etch primer ,the only way to go is 2 pack epoxy undercoat .Also body fillers can be used over the epoxy. My S should last 500 years because I use modern materials. P7676 I agree with P7676 that the 2 pack epoxy undercoat is the way to go, as you only need to lift the can to realise how much zinc is in there. It's brilliant in stopping any rust creep when the metal is exposed from a stone chip. I would not use anything else. |
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| Author: | Morbo28 [ Fri Apr 28, 2017 6:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: chemical dipping -- quoted |
What are some specific brand examples you suggest for 2 pack epoxy primers and would the choice of brand or paint type depend on what you want to spray over the top? Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk |
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| Author: | p7676 [ Fri Apr 28, 2017 7:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: chemical dipping -- quoted |
visit a panel paint supplier for the auto industry there are a lot of brands I use PPG.Stay with the same brand for top coat as well otherwise no warranty on materials. P7676 |
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