Hey,

Since I bought my car almost a year ago, everytime it gets a real drenching (like washing it or in torrential rain) I get water in the cabin. At night when the temp is lower I can feel the air coming in.

I plugged up all the screw/bolt holes in the firewall on friday and put a blanking plate across where my heater hoses used to go. I thought everything would be cool....

Just washed the car and it's still letting a crap load of water in!!!

I think its coming in the plates over each of my suspension towers. They have rubber caps for the inspection holes but on each side there are these little fins cut into the plate and I am thinking that water is getting in there. Should I cut out some new covers that are fully closed or is there a better solution?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Not sure if this is it, but the door seals tend to shrink over time. This is where water gets in when I wash mine. Anyone know how much new door seals cost?

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rare spares have them...
Product Code: RDS8037A
Price inc GST($AUD): $39.97 EA
Description: SEAL DOOR MINI

Another question from me :

I'm putting new window seals in... well near new

Is it necessary to use a silicone sealant to get a good seal or does the rubber do the job by itself?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

or you can just buy "door seal" by the metre from clark rubber

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...its leaking oil... and thats a good sign!
It lets me know that I havent run out yet. -Tzi 4-9-04

Dewey,
If you are talking windscreen or rear screen seals, don't use silastic- it's too messy. Best stuff is black or grey butyl mastic, it's made for the job. It's messy too, but comes off clean with some mineral turps..
If it's been used already, I betcha it will leak if you fit it dry. My NEW one did..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

use a new one and never use silastic on a car it is full of acid and we all know what acid will do to metal
to find the leek pull the carpets out and get some talc then spray the water on the car and follow the water
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

Selleys DMastic, is the product Dr Mini is referring too.

Dont be afraid to squeeze a heap in there. But after changing a couple hundred windscreens I can give ya a quick tip. Once the windscreen settles in over time it will squeeze a bit more out. So once ya've sealed it all up, clean all the excess off with rags. Before ya get in with the cleaners press on the rubber to squeeze that extra bit out too. Saves having to clean so much up a week later.

You shouldnt need to use any sealant on the side windows at all.

Edit.... H-Rubber, or self sealing rubber(no need for the locking strip) can be obtained for about 40 bucks each windscreen from any Windscreens O'Brien.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

Dewey,
My blue clubby used to do this...
It turned out that the windscreen rubber was slightly too big (english one?) and was slightly puckered on the inside corners. The water used to get in through there and then run down the outside edge of the 2 windscreen demister vents and proceed to drip onto the floor about where the pedals are. annoyed me for ages until I found it one day.

check that the doors are sealing against the top corners too. if the doors have been changed somethimes they need tweaking to seal properly around the top.

Andrew

Poeee, i got my door seals from MG Spare Parts in Smithfield, NSW. they were about $10 each.

the triangular seals in the front were $40 each. bastard of a price.

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

just over the hill from me
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

PhildoD D'mastic is great I use it for all round sealing too, but it stays soft - I tried using it on the front qurter vent window where the rubber on the edge folded from the window rubbing against it. It was all fine filling the hole and created a nice even surface with the rubber but just wouldnt dry and get harder so the moment I move the window (even if its several days after applying the d'mastic) it just smears off. Is there anything that has D'mastic's texture and sealing qualities but is harder?

Sikaflex.
It's a polyurethane sealer- similar applications to silastic but easier to work. You can even paint over it properly. It sets using moisture in the air- not acid. It smooths out well with your finger- unlike silastic etc which drag lumps out...

I also use it for sealing along the front bumper lip, and to help hold Inno flares on..

You can buy it at Bias Boating Warehouse, it's $12 or $16 /cartridge (2 types- both are good).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool I actualy bought the sealing - non bonding - type in Mitre two days ago. Gonna try it tonight.

Thanks
Michael

My apologies Mike, I should have mentioned that Dmastic doesnt go hard, for a few yaers anyway.

The only problem with Urethanes like Sikaflex is trying to get the crap off later on. If you consider that it's what holds windscreens in these days, it's definitely tough enough. One other thing with Sikaflex, its not UV resistant, and will break down after a while if it's in the sun.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

Hmmm- the Sikaflex 291 is supposed to be OK on caravans-there's a pic on the side- I just used a whole cartridge!

I'll let y'all all know in a few years..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.