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Dead Fuel Pump
https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27897		 Page 1 of 3
Author:  Razor [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Dead Fuel Pump
Car wont start today, no fuel pump ticking when ignition is on.

Tried tapping it and still no go.

So I'm buying a new one just wondering which one should I get?
I've read the solid state facet type is good

What type of fuel pump do I have?

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What's the easy way of replacing the fuel pump?
Should I install an inline fuel filter between the tank and pump?
Author:  sports850 [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 3:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
No comment on the type of pump except I think it's a generic plastic type , someone else can vouch for it's proper type . The easiest way to replace it is get two pairs of vice grips and clamp the fuel lines either side of the pump (go a bit further towards the tank so you can fit a filter if you want) and then take the old pump off and fit the new one . A filters a pretty good idea but not necessarily essential as an SU hasn't got fine jets to block up as other carbs .
Author:  Mick [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
I don't mean to make you suck eggs, but have you checked for 12 volts at the pump yet? Might be worth a look as there is the dodgy old fuse box and a conection plug near the windscreen wiper motor that may be playing up. Saying that, make sure the negative goes to ground as well.
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Your pump is an SU AUF201 or similar.
It may just need some TLC, clean the points etc. :wink:
Author:  Razor [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
will try and open it...I've got the black worskhop manual
Author:  Razor [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 5:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've got a Rover fuel tank with in-tank fuel pump wondering if I should just swap my tank with this so I can have more fuel capacity.

Can i have a rover tank without the fuel return or is this necessary for this tank? Can I just block it or something?
Author:  Morris 1100 [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hang on a moment.... In another thread you said that you replaced the starter and had to change the wiring to get the starter to work. Maybe you have left off a wire?

On the original solenoid where you moved a cable from one to the other post is there still a thin wire on the other post?
Author:  Razor [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
yes the trigger wire is still there white with red trace
car was cranking quite strong after I charged the battery
but few minutes ago I was testing the fuel pump voltage and its getting 12.5V
then tried starting it very nice strong cranks but not turning over.

disconnected the -ve wire from battery then put it again and there's no battery warning light on the dash and now its just clicking....
headlights working but no crank or ignition lights

I didnt touch anything

but still no fuel pump ticking
Author:  DOZ [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
Fuel pump doesn't tick until the pressure in the line drops. The pump you have got is a generic SU type that is most likely solid state switched (i've got one it looks very similar) rather than points type.

Are you sure it's not an ign problem. One easy way to tell is to place a teaspoon of fuel into throat of the carby(or each if youve got 2), stand back then crank the engine. If it doesn't at least cough you have an ign issue.
Author:  Razor [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
I can see fuel in the fuel filter (full), didnt check the carby bowls though

Right now its pointing to the ignition switch maybe?
as right now I'm getting not ignition warning light on the dash just clicks unlike this afternoon it was happily cranking

might try my other ignition barrel tomorrow
Author:  Hanra [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Or at least buy a $2 multimeter from supercheap or a 5c 12v Test Light.
Author:  Razor [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've got a multimeter but dont really know what to check
Author:  DOZ [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
stick one side of multi to earth, stick other to + of coil and turn ign on, should be either + or- 12V approx - ok 1.

if not ok put same end of multi as coil test to fuse/s and check for voltage. even check the big power cable from battery. If any don't read a voltage then check fuses/cause.
Author:  Hanra [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ensure ur meter is selected to Volts DC. Generally symbolised on multimeters as a solid line with 3 dotted lines underneath. Black probe to good earth point, red probe + side of coil when ign is turned to on.
Author:  Lillee [ Sat Feb 10, 2007 8:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
The solid state facet pumps are a good alternative if yours is busted
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