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| Camshaft question https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23761 |
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| Author: | Rodney [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | Camshaft question |
I'm putting my daughters engine together and was all ready to pop the cam in, when i discovered that the pin that goes through the cam ( the oil pump slots into it) was not there...... Found it in a little plastic bag from the engineers. The question is this.......can the pin be tapped back in to place or does it have to be heated or something??? I wouldn't think so because of possible damage to the newly ground surfaces, but your thoughts please. Cheers |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Oct 17, 2006 7:06 pm ] |
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They should have left it in for grinding....  now you will have to shorten it.
Watch the 2 flats in the middle are centralised when fitted, you want the round parts at each end to be shortened to equal length. It will just tap in. Put an oil pump in there to check it fits right and is square, BEFORE you fit the cam in. 
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| Author: | Rodney [ Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:00 am ] |
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Thanks again Kev. What don't you know???? |
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| Author: | Lillee [ Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:03 am ] |
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Not much Rodney, not much! 
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| Author: | Rodney [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:57 am ] |
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Ah yes.......he's a wealth of information. Shortened that pin, oil pump is on, everything turns with hardly a sound.....all very nice but very tight at the moment. No idea though if it's 180 degrees out  Get that sorted later, at least I'm aware of it.
Hooroo |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 9:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Rodney Why would it be 180 degree out. It wont run if it is - you can compensate with a dizzy that is 180 degrees out but not a cam. As long as the camshaft pully/sprocket and the crankshaft sprocket fit properly on their keyways and the two dots (one on each pulley) line up then then engine will be timed. Spend time getting that bit right though because a cog out either way will have a profound effect. If there is slack in the timing chain - get a new one - they are bugger all in the big picture to buy and a sloppy timing chain will affect performance. Timing an engine with a hot cam is slightly more complicated but you are not giving your daughter a full race motor. |
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| Author: | Rodney [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 9:46 am ] |
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Hi Mike, The timing marks are all lined up correctly and the engine has a new timing chain. I was just under the impression that because the crank rotates once to the cams twice, then although the marks are lined up, it may be one revolution out......but I'm probably 100% wrong. A few weeks ago when you did young Taits motor, it was 180 degs out when you guys were doing the timing.....or was this just the distributor drive?? While I have your attention Mike, two of the cam followers have a small wear mark on them from the cam. Will these be ok if I smooth them completely flat or should I get new ones?? |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 11:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Rodney Taits was entirely the distributer timing that was out. To the best of our knowledge, that motor was still an original factory assembled motor. Having said that, Aaron and Doogie did persaude tait to buy a new oil pump and timing chain. If you have the dots lined up then the valve timing should be right. The question about the cam followers - well, all the engine builders say you should replace the cam followers if a new (different ) camshaft is being used or if you cannot be sure you are matching the same follower to the same cam lobe. Refacing followers has mixed opinions amongst those in the know as well - which ever way you go, make sure you have copious amounts of assembly lube all over the cam and followers as they are slow to get oil in an initial start up. |
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| Author: | Rodney [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:28 pm ] |
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Hi Mike, Got hold of another set of cam followers today - practically brand new for only $20. When I picked up all of the bits from the engineers, the reground cam had a little tube of grease in its box (plus a 'bling' Crow Cam window sticker) and the spec sheet said to smear a small amount of it on each lobe and the bottom of each lifter and oil on the sides. Done all of that. Only about an hour or twos worth of work left to do on it now but the car still needs painting etc, so the engine will be sitting around for a while. Have a good weekend. |
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| Author: | Rodney [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:28 pm ] |
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:16 pm ] |
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Rodney wrote: Got hold of another set of cam followers today - practically brand new for only $20.. Why am I frightened?
Lifters need to be brand new. Each lifter will bed into the cam lobe and each cam lobe is slightly different and each lifter bore is slightly different. Using lifters that have been run on another cam will have a very hard time bedding in. I don't know if you have ever seen a cam with the lobes worn off from a couple of hours running.
If you rebuild an engine you can use your old lifters as long as each lifter goes back onto its correct cam lobe. If you take a cam from one motor to another you will need new lifters because there will be a slight difference in the location of the lifter bores so the lifters will sit on a different part of the cam lobe. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What he said...^^^ s/h lifters are bad news for a new/reground cam. I'd add that it's desirable and necessary to bed the reground cam and new lifters in. This is done by keeping the engine at 1,500-2,000 rpm for 10-15 mins WHEN FIRST STARTED, do not let it idle during this time...
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| Author: | Morris 1100 [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:45 pm ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: This is done by keeping the engine at 1,500-2,000 rpm for 10-15 mins WHEN FIRST STARTED, do not let it idle during this time... Do not forget to remove the rug from under the car that you were laying on while working under the car, when you run the car at 2,000 rpm for 15 minutes the extractors will start to glow red and set the carpet alight (don't ask me how I know this)
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| Author: | Rodney [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 9:51 pm ] |
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Thanks for the input there guys....you've now got me worried too. Thanks. No really, you have me concerned. I believe that the lifters I got hold of today were practically un-used because you can still see the machining marks (series of circles) on the face that sits on the cam lobe. They came out of a crashed mini with a re-co engine. Was driven for a week or so only. Should I get some brand new ones?? Thanks again |
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| Author: | 9YaTaH [ Fri Oct 20, 2006 9:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Camlube |
drmini in aust wrote: What he said...^^^ s/h lifters are bad news for a new/reground cam.
I'd add that it's desirable and necessary to bed the reground cam and new lifters in. This is done by keeping the engine at 1,500-2,000 rpm for 10-15 mins WHEN FIRST STARTED, do not let it idle during this time... Not to mention CAMLUBE....slap the stuff on and prime your oil pump them cross your fingers  
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