I've only had my mini for a month or so but see the real attraction to them, I had to fix the steering rack and alternator so far and now I'm not sure how bad the electrical system is. On the way home last week the ALT light came on (I assume it means the alternator isn't working correctly) but it only can on when I tried to indicate or brake or the like. By the time I got home (about a 45min trip) the lights on the dash didn't even light up (ie the ALT and OIL lights). Is this just a case of a faulty alternator or could there be something more sinister here.

Just trying to get some info from the more experiences mini owners here.

Test the output of the alternator when the engine is running. That should give you a fair idea whether it's the alternator or not.

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just check the earth straps to one on the engine drvers side on the cltch houseing and the one in the boot on the battery
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

I checked the straps and both look good and connected. I haven't had the chance to test the output of the alternator (how do I do that, am I checking the Amps it puts out, how much should it be?)

I've got a friend who said he'd come over on sunday to help, he's good at electrical stuff but I'd really like to sort it out before that.

Test 2 things, voltage and current. The voltage should be above 12v and under 14.4v. Anything under and it wont charge the battery, anything over and it's not good news for the other componants. Current... not exactally sure there, but you should know if it's bad or not.

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if the alternator isnt working then the headlights will not get brighter as you rev the car.

We use a volt meter in Victoria! hehe

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i only had my mini for a little while when a similar thing hapenned. when you were braking the alternator light kept coming on. it was found to be a plug in the side of the brake resovouir(word?) that tells you that fluid was low. mine was broken and kept earthing under brakes causing the light to come on. am i on the right track the more experienced guys?

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Green Clubman
Hot 1380
13" Wheels
Dont have time to use it enough

You're right, but it's better to start with the simple things. If it's happening when using different things, like indicator, brake, etc, then it's prolly a more generalised problem. If your alternator seems fine, then that's when ya go looking at some specifics.

edit... another thing... how new is your battery?

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Not sure on the age of the battery? Got the car about a month ago, battery looks at least a couple of years old. Now the ALT lights doesn't come on at all and I have no indicators or brake lights, driving lights turn on but not sure about when I rev the motor (should have remembered thast one.)

I'll check the voltage and get back to you.

I checked the voltage and it doesn't change from 12V(at the battery at least) with the engine off and on. Guess this suggests the alternator or the voltage regulator?

The regulator is INSIDE the alternator on all Lucas we got, except the 15AC used on MK2 S, Mini K etc.

If the indicator bulb is blown the alternator will not charge.
If it comes on dim or blinks and goes out when you rev it, it's usually the brushes going.

If you've only got 12V with motor running and the light does work, I'd either overhaul it (bearings & brushes) or go buy another one.. even new ones are not real dear.

BTW, a 45A Bosch one fits good, just needs the adjuster plate modded.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

At first the light on the dash would go away when I rev'ed it, but now I don't get any lights on the dash (even when just turning the key to pre-start.

I was guessing that the black extra bit was the regulator attached to the alternator Would you suggest the Bosch one over a overhauled one. How difficult is getting/modding the adjuster plate?

What did you mean by "even new ones are not real dear." ie all of them are reconditioned (??dear??)

I bought a new Lucas one last year for $190. Some places charge that for a recond one.

My mate has a Bosch 45A on his Morris Minor woody van, I think it cost him around $240 fitted.
The adjusting bracket was a bit short- you can either make a longer one out of two brackets, or cut away the aluminium Bosch front mounting underneath (it has L-R mounts for various cars..) which is a better idea on a Mini.

Or go to the wreckers and get something S/H off a Jap car, but then you have to suss out the wiring..

Before you do any of this, go trace the wiring and check the indicator bulb. If the bulb is no good the alternator will NOT charge- it relies on 12V feed thru here to energise the field coils.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

<stupid question> Are you talking about the bulb in the dash or another bulb?, sorry if it seems stupid just clarifying</stupid question>

I was also going to ask you questions about modifying the head. I remember before the site died I asked about Carbies and I think you told me to do head work first.

I've got an 1100 I think and was going to get extractors and a sports exhaust (not sure on brand of extractors and suggestions, they where mandrel bent). I would like to do the carby soon so what exactly should I get done to the head (ULP/PULP conversion, cam, porting what changes, compression?).

I was told a 12G295 head is best but these are big $$$'s so modding the current head can be better, I used to drive a WRX so I understand I'd have alot less power but I'd like to get some more go and possibly put a supercharger on it at a later stage (I understand I may just need to rebuild the head later.)

Thanks for all the help.