Hi All

Here is an odd problem. Checked all lights and headed off for the annual registration inspection. Brake lights were no longer working. Back home with multimeter in hand. Power was getting to hydraulic brake line switch, but no power to lights. Disconnected wiring socket at rear and power getting to socket. Plugged back in and no power to lights or socket. Possibly bulb shorting out line, so removed and tested bulbs,- all good and power getting to light socket as well. Replaced bulbs and no power again to rear.

Checked hydraulic switch for resistance, works fine with low resistance when brake pressed, but when voltage applied and brake pressed no power to other side of switch, so not working under load. Removed switch and blew out with compressor and tested out of vehicle with load and working again. Conclusion, dirt in switch.

Reinstalled, brake lights working fine. Drove out of garage, and lights not working again with no power getting through switch under load. New one on order.

Anyone else had this problem?

Bazzz

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Mini Cooper S Mk 2, 1970,
Mini van 1970 with side windows now converted to 4 seater traveller

Stick the long spout of a can of WD-40 or the like up the hole, exercise the pin a few times, spray again, blow it out and try again.

I got thoroughly sick and tired of messing with the hydraulic switch. The new ones are next to useless aswell. Fitted a brake pedal switch 3 years ago and have not had to mess with it since.

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Cheers Dave.

Bazz
I had the same problem a few years ago. The contacts once corroded won't carry enough current to light the bulbs &/or lights only come on with very heavy braking: too late for the idiot behind you.
My solution (NON-standard, but working perfectly for 6 years) was to put a lever micro switch above the brake pedal lever, wired in parallel with the hydraulic switch. The two switches are wired to earth so that they switch on a relay that sends 12v to the stop lights. The lights come on at the first touch of the pedal. (A high centre brake light on the back parcel shelf is much brighter than the original brake lights and also up at the height of most modern car brake lights.)
Good luck Dave D

Ditto for Steam's comments.
The original switches lasted a long time but with less use and over time, they corrode or silt-up.
I haven't investigated the fault as deeply, but changed to a non-original but functioning pedal switch too.

Agreed new "Lucas" switch last for a week or two.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Some time back I was told the Harley Davidson 72023-51E hydraulic switch was interchangeable.
Anyone tried it?

After getting 3 months out of a new switch I fitted a clubby pedal switch instead.
Lockheed switch was good, recent noname ones not so.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Dr,
Which model clubmans had a pedal switch? 72 thru 76 here all have hydraulic. I am looking for a better fit than somewhat heath robinson I hashed up.

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Cheers Dave.

The 76-_78 Clubman had them. Easy to fit but need to put an L bracket on the pedal box. I bought the switch from karcraft.
P/no: 13H3735L/2

Advantage over hydraulic is the lamps light before the anchors take effect, so the Muppet behind you has more time to react.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

This is the drawing for the switch bracket. Can someone explain explain how and where it fits? Or maybe a photo of one in place.



Here's the switch - https://www.ebay.com.au/p/2083485666

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

If the hole shown is where the switch is mounted, then how is the bracket fitted in place?

They were spot welded.
I made mine from dexion slotted angle and drilled a 5/16 hole for a bolt. Not much room, I cut down a drill bit and used my short right angle corded drill.

Edit
I could have taken the pedal box out to make pretty, but not much point on a bitsa, you can't see its beauty anyway. I just wanted stop lights asap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ah, that answers my question. With no bracket mounting holes shown I thought there might be another drilling instruction drawing, but spot welding makes sense.

It's position may be shown on the pedal box drawing.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

I'll have to check my pedal box stock to see what is what when I am allowed to go searching.