Is there any feedback on this system as I am considering buying one for my 29D4 distributor and doing away with points.
https://www.aeowparts.com/product-page/ ... n-kit-29d4

Hi, a couple of days ago I had a "vivid" discussion on f/b with David Walker who works at Link automotive, on this type of kit for 29D. He told the man who wanted to buy it, use points. I recommended that although I personally have reservations about the quality of the kit, that fitting it with their recommended coil, the electronic in this day and age of substandard parts, is a better bet. Neither are failproof, but output at higher rpm is far better with electronic. Generally speaking an electronic car starts better. The current chinese made Bosch GT40 coil can work with either, but output is only OK.
All points that I see have a plastic rubbing block. (better quality used to have fibre) and they seem to wear or melt excessively
condensers are a problem (Even DW owned up to that), but he claims Minispares resin filled or Swiftune race ones have been ok lately !
I looked up the price of those, and if you were in a hurry from Uk, they would cost $80 -$100 ea. ! He says you can buy them in Australia for $16. ???
Coil output also decreases as the revs rise with points.
But having said all this, you need to carefully fit any electronic kit, using heatsink grease. Earth systems are particularly important, as is the coil choice. If you reverse the wiring, this particular MODULE WILL FAIL. If you have a dud plug lead, the module output curve will be erratic, which also can contribute to failure.
I run my own electronic in all my cars, and have never had a failure myself. But I carry a spare module and the tools to fit it. But having been a boy scout, I also carry a fuel pump on tours.
There is always going to be two opinions on this subject. cheers Lindsay

_________________
1959 Austin A40 Farina fun car
1965 Mk1 Cooper S restored
1970 Colt 1100F SS restored
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

I have two cars with 29D dizzies. Both are fitted with Pertronix LU-142 electronic implants. I have a Powerspark unit in another of my cars (25D dizzy). All run just fine. I too carry a spare (a Pertronix unit) in case of necessity. Many miles so far of trouble free motoring.

I would avoid the stuff from AEOW/Tony, there is nothing special about them and I have heard of many failures. I too can go on aliexpress, import them, mark them up and then spam forums about them (I have seen him reply to threads over ten years old to advertise).

Maybe they aren't bad for the price but I would definitely buy two if I did buy them.

_________________
1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

I’ve had an AEOW electronic module and coil on my car since 2014 with no problems with the product

The only issue was me hooking them up backwards while diagnosing on the side of the road (which was a blown head gasket) which damaged the module. Some of the more expensive ones have polarity protection

A good electronic points setup has many advantages over points:
No maintenance
Even spacing of the 4 lobes (points can wear the distributor cam unevenly and provide uneven firing and dwell)
Variable dwell and higher coil power capability

_________________

Hi cooperess
Lots of varying opinions on distributor, spark, coil, leads, timing curve,.

without going over old grounds again, I would just add.
The coil needs to be appropriate (matched)
The timing curve needs to be appropriate AND verified.......(check this yourself with timing light)
I have seen electronic kits (NOT any mentioned in this thread) where instead of say 22 degrees at 2500 rpm and all in at 30degress by 4500rpm, they just kept on climbing well past 36 degrees,
Installation matters..... you can fry systems ..... some electronic points don't like being left in the ON position when engine is off ........ when i dither around under the engine, i often forget to turn off the key between tweaks...... this is not the module's fault it is the nodule (ME)

In my experience , condensor units are not necessarily unreliable BUT they are unpredictable ..... having a spare is essential, ( and having a tested spare is even better)

Good luck with choice

What if I went all the way and replaced my Mk2 Cooper S dizzie and coil with this. Can anyone see a problem. https://www.aeowparts.com/product-page/ ... 1-cooper-s

As long as it has the right advance curve it should be fine. At least the 25D service parts are readily available

_________________

I am pretty dumb on this stuff, what is an advance curve?

The advance curve is the transition from idle timing to max timing. At idle you need less timing, then as rpm increases you need more timing and get to a maximum of around 30 degrees.

It is set by using different advance cams and springs in the distributor. There’s many different cam plates that change how much is added from idle to max. There’s also hundreds of springs to change how quick the advance comes in

Too much timing and you get poor running and detonation
Too little and you loose performance and can cause other issues

_________________

So, if the weighs are 15 then the advance curve is 28 to 32 degrees?

The cam degrees determines the maximum advance value in distributor degrees (multiply by two for crank degrees). The advance curve is how it gets to that value from no advance.

Say you wanted 32 crankshaft degrees max ignition timing, with a 15° advance (distributor) then the static timing (0 rpm) would be 2°

The advance and its curve is how the timing gets to 32° and at what rpm.

Here is a document which might help explain it all. https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/pdf/tuning_lucas_dist.pdf

_________________
1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

I've had this kind of module on my 29D for about 14 years now. Like above, be careful with the coil selection. They don't like the resistor coils like the Bosch SU12R, the primary resistance is too low and it burns them out.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Current Powermax module from UK is rated for 1.5 or 3 ohm coils. Also has protection against damage by ignition left on.
I've been running one with a 1.5 ohm Nissan pulsar coil. No ballast resistor.. no problems.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you buy the whole unit from Tony, take it to someone who can set the mechanical advance up.

I bought two complete distributors with electronic ignition, and they both had over 40 degrees of mechanical advance up top.
They worked fine when set up with an advance stop.