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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2022 6:22 pm 
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Location: North Brisbane
64 mk1 Morris with 1098 and 3 gauge binnacle- I have recently installed aftermarket Water temp gauge & sender. It doesn't appearing to be reading accurately.

Should I be being running the gauge off the Voltage Stabilizer? or is that only required for the original Smiths?

Is it the battery power wire or the sensing wire that would run through the stabilizer?

Thanks all.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2022 7:04 pm 
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It depends on the specific gauge you bought. Did it come with instructions and the specific sender?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2022 10:32 pm 
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All aftermarket electric temp gauges I ever fitted ran off 12V.
I think the Lucas voltage stabiliser is a relic from 12V dynamo days, when you had bugger all charge when idling. Why 10V.

You need to use the sender supplied with it.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2022 10:57 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
All aftermarket electric temp gauges I ever fitted ran off 12V.
I think the Lucas voltage stabiliser is a relic from 12V dynamo days, when you had bugger all charge when idling. Why 10V.

You need to use the sender supplied with it.


Thanks Doc.

I am using the sender that came with the unit.. I just need to get a 1/8npt to 5/8UNF adapter as the sender is currently running through 2 separate adapters as its all we had at the time.

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1964 MORRIS 850 - POST ZOMBIE APOCALYPSE CAFE RACER INSPIRED.

https://spotify.link/D0P4KtIP2yb

1098 +0.40
266 Kent Cam
GR Flat top pistons
HS6
1.3:1 Roller tip rockers
Stupid high CR


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 8:41 am 
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The sender may not be getting water to it correctly, it needs to be directly in the water.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 9:51 am 
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Location: Adelaide
And the sender needs to be earthed through the fitting if it has a single wire going to it like the standard Mini ones.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 10:03 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
All aftermarket electric temp gauges I ever fitted ran off 12V.
I think the Lucas voltage stabiliser is a relic from 12V dynamo days, when you had bugger all charge when idling. Why 10V.

You need to use the sender supplied with it.


Early gauges also ran on 12V... When I switched tanks on my S I had to fit a matching fuel gauge and so needed a stabiliser but wired so that the temp gauge could still run on 12.....

All the old gauges worked quite well when fed their required voltage... Only the engineers could tell us why they switched ...Cost??

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 12:56 pm 
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Thanks all,

The sender is a twin wire & earthed correctly. I will purchasing the correct sized adapter so that it fits correctly.

After further research (or reading of the instructions) i have used the incorrect sized sensing wire which gives a false reading... Should be a fairly easy fix.

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1964 MORRIS 850 - POST ZOMBIE APOCALYPSE CAFE RACER INSPIRED.

https://spotify.link/D0P4KtIP2yb

1098 +0.40
266 Kent Cam
GR Flat top pistons
HS6
1.3:1 Roller tip rockers
Stupid high CR


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 1:51 pm 
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MINIRO wrote:
After further research (or reading of the instructions) i have used the incorrect sized sensing wire which gives a false reading... Should be a fairly easy fix.

Hey, reading the instructions is not allowed. Trial and error is the usual and preferred method in the Mini community. :)

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 5:48 pm 
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winabbey wrote:
MINIRO wrote:
After further research (or reading of the instructions) i have used the incorrect sized sensing wire which gives a false reading... Should be a fairly easy fix.

Hey, reading the instructions is not allowed. Trial and error is the usual and preferred method in the Mini community. :)


Good to see I am doing it the correct way then... LOL

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1964 MORRIS 850 - POST ZOMBIE APOCALYPSE CAFE RACER INSPIRED.

https://spotify.link/D0P4KtIP2yb

1098 +0.40
266 Kent Cam
GR Flat top pistons
HS6
1.3:1 Roller tip rockers
Stupid high CR


Top
 Profile  
 
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