Well don't you just love the little darlings, our Mini's.
Had a trip planned tnis weekend but the hydraulic brake light switch has done its dash. So no brake lights. I could just go anyway but the coppers and the chan e of a rear ender do not appeal.
Rather than replace the hydraulic switch, I am converting to a more modern brake pedal switch.
I have a couple of ideas regarding how to go about this but I would like to know others ideas and solutions to this
So lets hear you ideas and fixes.
Cheers. Dave.

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Cheers Dave.

I’d say it’s a pretty popular option. Another couple of benefits are:
Don’t have to bleed the system if the switch fails
The lights come on when the pedal moves, and not once the pressure goes up, so potentially gives the person behind you more time to react

There’s some photos and part numbers in the the thread here
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=98567&p=1048934

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Thanks for the link and assoc info.

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Cheers Dave.

Psssssst Timmy, if you have the replacement ready to screw in, and you are quick with your gloved finger blocking the hole, you don't have to bleed brakes

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"Show me the Mini!"

The later clubman minis had the mechanical switch bracket included in the pedal box.
I had the same issues with a 1970 mini where old pressure switches and poor quality replacement switches failed often.
This is my version using a Toyota or Mitsubishi brake light switch - similar to factory and other versions. It was set up with everything on the car. Used one of those angled drill chucks to access the positions - easier off the car.
The 2 wires from the original pressure switch can be easily passed through the firewall and will reach down to the mechanical switch relocated on the pedal box - maybe through a hole drilled in the large blanking plate where fresh air hose was meant to go.

Steam
I had exactly the same problem a few years ago and decided that the brake pedal switch was faster, much more sensitive, and easier. I sent this circuit suggestion to Silicon Chip Electronics Magazine which they published in the May 2016 issue. It is not just Minis that have the brake line pressure switch problem; nearly all pre 1970 cars do.
The switch should be mounted ABOVE the brake pedal arm so that the button or arm of the switch is pushed in but the switch is OFF. When you push down on the brake pedal the switch button or arm pushes out and turns the switch ON.
I used the same large switch fitting method as Bill B, but a small switch or micro lever switch can be used if it is wired to carry only the relay coil current. I left the hydraulic switch, but wired it in parallel with the pedal switch. The two switches are in effect just "earthing switches", like the horn button. The relay switches the large current for the stop lights (and high centre stop light in my car .... I want to be SEEN; I also fitted 5 watt bulbs in the spots as DRL's).
If the 12 volt power supply is from an "always on" fuse then the brake lights will work even if the engine is off.
Hope this helps. Dave D.

Thamks guys, all info greatfully received.
Electrics do not worry me as electrical/ electronics is my trade.
Managed to get a couple of hours in the shed tonight but I did get rather carried away ripping out old unused wiring from the bulkhead as I was rerouting the switch wires.



Some was wiring that I had done for a thermo fan some years back but I did find some PO Bodges so fixed that up as well.
I did notice that the inline fuse for theside lights etc normally behind the M/C area is not there so I will have to chase that now as well.
I did make the braket for the switch, one I found in the worktruck which I think is a security tamper switch and I am going to use a relay.

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Cheers Dave.

Steam.
Your wiring, looks like some of my early efforts.
I've tried to be a bit more organized recently and use Lucas wiring colours were possible to give future owners (and me) a chance to follow circuits through the car.
I did struggle to find the Lucas colours for a GPS km/hr speedo. The closest I could get was purple/red for the map light.
Dave D

I too, try to stick to correct colours but available cables tend to take precedence and I use what I have to hand.
Knowing the wiring I have done keeps it logical.

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Cheers Dave.