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PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2021 9:12 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:38 pm
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I fitted new ball joints 2 years ago and I have now found one top ball joint has excessive movement. .I had noticed a rattle noise and that is why I checked the suspension. Problem is when I take the 3 shims out there is still wear and movement in the ball joint. Cant figure out why? I will replace the ball joint next week, Has anyone had this problem ? When I fitted the new ones 2 years ago they were perfect and I torqued them up to the specs .
Allen


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 5:03 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Back when we could get Leyland or Rover or Unipart ball joints they were a quality product. These days it depends where made, some out there are of dubious quality. There have been cases of them breaking in service... It's a worry.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 8:19 am 
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998cc
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Thanks doc I bought them from mini kingdom so I expected they would be ok
Your help and knowledge is always appreciated.
Allen


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 1:52 pm 
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Location: Brandy Hill, NSW
Attachment:
Mini Ball Joint Kit 8G4197EVA.JPG
I have a spare 8G4197EVA MG Rover kit if that helps.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 2:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2005 1:52 pm
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Location: Brisbane
"I bought them from mini kingdom so I expected they would be ok" and that's what he said too

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2021 9:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2014 11:14 pm
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Some faces of the ball and cup are not entirely symmetrical, so when you had a 'tight' joint upon initial assembly, this could have been due to both faces of each having high spots.

One mod I have done - new or old - is to lapp the surfaces with some grinding paste. Put the cup and the ball together in their mated position, and insert the threaded section of the ball in drill, whilst the cup is held in a vice.

You'll more often than not find that this then requires the removal of shim/s - only due to the inconsistency of the 'roundness' of both surfaces.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 7:53 am 
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Location: Sydney
There was a discussion about the Japanese made ball joints here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=99955&p=1055472&hilit=Classicminisjapan#p1055472 not sure if @TK reported back. If they are built to Japanese spec in Japan then you would expect them to be a quality product

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1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 9:19 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Re the removing of shims..
Many new ones only have room for 1 shim in, a few times I have had to machine the face of the cap to make room!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 5:08 pm 
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Thanks boys for all the great information .
Allen


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