Hi All,

I picked up a couple of VH44's today as they came up at a decent price and I might use one in the future. Both are genuine PBR units and have PBR stamped and cast on everything

1) They both have the mounting studs on the opposite side to mini ones, I assume they can be rotated to be on the other side?
2) Is there a way to check whether they will suit a mini - like the slave cylinder diameter - and where do I measure this? They don't specify the model of VH44 on the tags
3) Is it worth stripping them down myself and seeing what it's like? I can see rebuild kits are available or just send it away for a rebuild/exchange. Is there any recommended people doing this at the moment?
4) I assume the internals of this one look pretty good - they both had new looking genuine PBR diaphragms but thats as far as I went

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There is Hydroboost.
https://www.hydroboost.com.au/
plus there is another bloke in SE Qld I think, but can't remember his trading name.

i think it’s a 44j for disc brakes
there is a place in brendale brisbane called stopmasters who overhaul boosters

There low pressure units for drum brake cars fords holdens etc

You might be able to work out the type going by the internal measurements

Burt Bros. Fairfield did one for me and Dave Booth at South Coast brake resleeving Gold Coast also does them
Glen

Any decent brake shop should be able to do them. B&R Brakes in Blacktown did mine, but it was years ago.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I rebuilt mine recently with a new body and other parts and advice supplied by Burt Bros in Fairfield NSW. Power Brakes South Australia are also helpful on older cars.
The bore was corroded and new bodies are cheaper than resleeves.

The booster on Mk2 Ss is VH44JA. It has the same internals as the VH44J at 5/8inch bore, used on some Valiants, as per GTOGREEN'S table, and the "A" means the vacuum chamber is turned to mount on the RH inner guard of the mini. If you have to reverse the vacuum shell, it is straight forward.


Guide on "How To" here was very helpful to me:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=90214

It very much depends on the state of the bore and the tiny internal valves, seals, and pins. All can seem fine and good on the bench but not work correctly when put into service. A proffesional rebuild may well be expensive but worth the money.
On a different tack, I have just removed mine and find the braking just s good without the VH 44.

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Cheers Dave.

New VH44 are in the range $80-150...so if originality isn't a consideration...park your unit and fit new

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"Show me the Mini!"

Non-genuine though, aren't they, all the way from China?

What isn't these days? or from one of the myriad other third world countries...

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"Show me the Mini!"

and Ohhhh by the Way...even reputable overhaul companies have the same quality lucky dip problem with their overhaul kits and parts...

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"Show me the Mini!"

My son found that the price of a new one compared to repairing the old one, either Girlock or vh44, have one of each. He was quoted around the $700.00 to repair or replace for under $150.00, so it back on the shelf with the originals until he wins lotto.

Graham

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1974 Leyland Clubman
Lots of good machines

Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.

I've noted online comments on more than one occasion about the poor build quality of the new VH44"s. No personal experience though.

Given it's part of a safety critical component of the car I'd do some more research before going that way. Each to their own of course.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43