G'day,

Having sorted my starter motor issues, I've moved on to making sure the static timing is right before I try and start my rebuilt 850 motor.
Before I put the motor back in, I had it set where I thought was about right and at that time, I posted on here about the position of No 1 plug lead being out of whack compared to how it was before the motor was pulled apart. What I did back then was simply rotate all the plug leads around 1 position anti clockwise (looking at motor from the front) on the cap.

However, now that I've got the motor back in and all the wiring hooked up, I thought I'd do a final check with a test light to adjust the static timing. What I've done is connect the lead from the test light to the -ve side of the coil and then earth out the light. When the points just start to open, the light should come on and it does. When points are closed, no light.

The issue I have now is that in order to get the distributor in the right position for the test light to just come on, the vacuum advance part of the distributor is either sitting a bit to the left of 12 o'clock or at about 3 o'clock if I turn it round the other way. Neither of these positions work for me. Apart from the small copper vacuum advance tube not being able to be screwed on as it's either too short in the 12 o'clock position or fouling against the oil filter in the 3 o'clock one, I also had a clearance issue in the 12 o'clock position with the oil pressure switch. I've fitted a mechanical oil pressure gauge as well as the switch and the t piece for the oil gauge now means the old oil pressure switch sits further out.

So I'm thinking that if I remove the distributor drive and rotate it one tooth clockwise, I'll hopefully end up with the distributor in a better position. So my question relates to removing and installing the distributor drive.

I have a suitable long bolt that screws into the drive. But BEFORE I do anything I want to check with you blokes to make sure I don't muck things up.

According to the manual, it simply says "withdraw the spindle". What sort of pressure do I need to put on the bolt when pulling it out? Will it slip out easily or take a bit more pull? Any O rings etc that I could damage?

Once it's out, does it simply slide back in?

Sorry if this post is a bit long but I wanted to explain what's happening so you can understand my problem.

Thanks Rocky

Yep, it comes out easily - it'll naturally want to rotate as it disengages from the gear on the cam. Same thing when putting it back in, it'll rotate as it goes in to place. Pretty hard to stuff up as long as you use a long (4") bolt

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

It turns a bit as it comes out and goes in because of the hex gear meshing. It won't take much effort to pull it out. I've never damaged anything doing so.

The alignment of the drive as it goes back in could be a bit tricky first time around as the slot will rotate a little as the hex gear meshes. Try it a few times to see how it goes and you will be alright.


cheers
michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

The thread is 5/16 UNF. A long rocker post or gearbox stud works as well as a bolt.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Simon and Michael - sounds easy enough. And yes Doc I've got a bolt from an engine mount.

What's the go with the horror stories you read about the drive dropping into the gearbox? I understand the bolt you're pulling it out with stops if falling but what actually holds in place to stop it going into the box when it's put back in and you unscrew the bolt?

I've spent the last 2 years working on Minnie and I'm keen to fire it up so I thought I'd give it a whirl as it is and adjust later as required.

Fully rebuilt engine, reco carb etc and it fired after about 3 turns on full choke.

To say I'm a happy man is an understatement

Cheers, Rocky

Do you have a 25D distributor with the adjustment winder near the vacuum pod? You can advance and retard the timing with that, possibly now it’s fully one way?

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After rebuilding a gearbox with new gaskets etc. I managed to let the drive spindle drop down into the gearbox case while unscrewing the bolt. A partial dismantle and separation of box and engine was needed.

I've haven't made the mistake since.

The nose of the spindle fits into a recess in the gearbox case. You can see it when looking down the aperture.

With the temporary bolt installed you can "feel" the nose entering the recess as the spindle rotates while engaging the drive gear on the camshaft. Keeping the spindle central to the housing when inserting it makes it easier to find the recess. With the spindle fully home fit the distributor housing (#51 below), ensuring it is also fully home, screw it to the block (#53), then remove the temporary bolt.

Before putting the tools away and giving yourself a pat on the back check the drive slot in the top of the spindle is in the correct orientation. You may have to withdraw the spindle, rotate it a tooth or two and reinsert.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

There are pictures in all the manuals showing correct dizzy driveshaft orientation at TDC firing #1 cylinder.
Note that when building motor and timing marks on the timing sprockets align, that is cylinder #4 firing. So the picture shown is then 180° out.
Need to turn motor 1 turn for picture to apply.
This catches many people doing their first rebuild.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think people try to put it in using a short bolt and a pair of pliers... bad idea



Excellent, congrats

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I have an old rubber uni ‘U’ bolt straightened out one end and a little bend at the other end to use as a handle. No way the drive will drop in the gearbox, even if you drop it.

Thanks everyone for your tips - the bent U bolt is a top idea.
As the motor is running really nice like it is, I've decided to leave well enough alone at this stage and let the workshop I'm taking to it for it's tune up adjust as required. I haven't adjusted the timing at all from when I put the dizzie in. It fired up so easily I thought it must be somewhere about right. The dizzie does clear the oil switch at the moment and I haven't got vacuum line hooked up.
As I don't have the necessary equipment or knowledge, I was always going to take Minnie to someone who knows what they're doing to have timing checked, the vacuum advance checked, the carby settings (and needle if required) adjusted and a full wheel alignment. I'm going to trailer it to them rather than drive it on a permit so I don't risk doing any damage with things not set up correctly.
I've run the engine for about 5 minutes in total today and took her out for a quick drive down our street and back just to see if gearbox and brakes work ok - all good there.

Another reason I'm going to leave as is at the moment is that I think it may be possible to simply rotate the spark plug leads one spot anti clockwise and that might allow the dizzie to be rotated clockwise and be in a better position. I'm currently running points ignition and using the old cap and coloured leads that were on the car when I got it. I do plan though on running electronic ignition and have a new cap and leads etc to put on. Haven't screwed the leads into the new cap yet. I thought I'd get her running on the old setup as that used to work and I figured I'd change one thing at a time in case things don't fire up.

I've attached some pics of how things are today. You can see the clearance I have between the dizzie and the oil pressure switch as well as the orientation of the dizzie and the leads. In the pics, No 1 lead is red. The coloured electrical tape on the wiring harness was just my way of identifying where the wires go.

The spark plug leads are in the same place in the cap as they were originally, however the dizzie was rotated clockwise so the vacuum advance was pointing at about 1 o'clock. The attached pic of the dirty engine it as it was originally.

Once again, thanks everyone for your help and I'll let you know how I get on after the tune up.

Rocky