Hi All,
Just after some additional advise on setting up a mini spares lightweight flywheel and backplate. Basically a how to or any tips not mentioned in the instruction sheet.

Cheers
Ian

I wrote a blog about setting clutch spring height in the how to forum.
I've used it for light weight steel flywheels also.

Edit
Get it balanced before fitting, I have seen some new competition steel flywheels from UK that were miles out.
Maybe were correct before they welded the ring gear on..!

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It seems silly now .... but with everything apart, make sure the drive straps go on the right way round. They fit either way but the wrong way stops clutch release.

And, as Doc says, you will need to set the spacers to the correct height.

Make sure the starter bendix is clean and operating properly. The thin ring gear takes a beating.

Cheers, Ian

turn your idle speed up a bit...

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Make sure the taper is clean but with a hint of light oil there to prevent the flywheel rusting on to the taper.

_________________
the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Do NOT oil the taper!!!

_________________
The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Because-
The drive connection is through the taper fit, not the key washer, which is for location.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Why is this?

Sent from my Nokia 5.1 Plus using Tapatalk

_________________
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=93352

If I'm carrying on like a pork-chop, I'm having a great time.

If I go very quiet there's a very good chance I broke something.

Because a light race flywheel will result in rougher running at low speed causing primary gear rattle.
1100 or so RPM is ok.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I'll be damned. Nobody mentioned that to me! Makes sense though

Sent from my Nokia 5.1 Plus using Tapatalk

_________________
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=93352

If I'm carrying on like a pork-chop, I'm having a great time.

If I go very quiet there's a very good chance I broke something.

Big friggin' ditto, I oiled mine once, was ridiculously hard to get off. My 3/4" thick steel puller couldn't do it...

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Maybe heating the oil turns it to glue!

Thanks for all the comments. Hey Doc, I cant find that thread your talking about. Maybe I'm going googly eyed looking for it.....Do you have a link?

Cheers
Ian

I thought I had done one, in hindsight I may have just posted a link to Mini mania.com,'s clutch assembly procedure in the past.

I've just put a blog in the how to forum on how I do it. Feel free to PM me if you need more info.

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=100137

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi, I dont know precisely whats in the instructions, but this is my basic method

Lap the flywheel on with valve grinding paste..You do not need a lot of paste, but initially I do full rotation a few times, then backwards and forwards roughly where it will sit. Then I clean all the paste out with solvent.
I have used the Minispares ones and i feel they are one of the few that have the taper correct, as the full area of fit shows obvious polishing. Some will leave the inside edge not marked, and this has the potential to make the flywheel fret and damage crank and just the area of largest diameter of flywheel taper. It cost $1500 to repair a race crank damaged by the flywheel in this inner area , and an $800 race flywheel was thrown in the bin...So again aftermarket is not always better then original.
I have everything ready, clean threads etc, then warm up the flywheel taper with a hot air gun, fit it quickly and tension it up. Then I give the flywheel bolt quite a hefty thump with a copper hammer, then retension again, and it always moves around 1/8 - 1/4 turn. The hammer sound is quite solid, as the flywheel is home. I then get a screwdriver onto the clutch plate and rotate it, making sure its free to turn. This is not usually a problem with new flywheels, but sometimes used ones have gone on too far from many uses, and jam the end of the C washer and primary gear.It is annoying to fit a new engine and find the clutch does not release
I then pull the bolt out again, check that the flywheel sits in the correct place on the crank, i.e crank is below the flywheel outer face, as some new flywheels with wrong taper will have the crank protruding past the flywheel, and then you will "curse".
I use loctite on the bolt, no locktab, as in my opinion the locktab is a soft material, and frets and collapses.
This is my technique, and I know several top builders who use basically the same. It may not suit you, and is not what you will read in a workshop manual ... This applies to 850 or full race imho
Cheers Lindsay Siebler

_________________
1959 Austin A40 Farina fun car
1965 Mk1 Cooper S restored
1970 Colt 1100F SS restored
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project