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| Removal of rear subframe - hydrolastic https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=100053 |
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| Author: | dubbomini [ Sat May 30, 2020 11:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Removal of rear subframe - hydrolastic |
Hi guys, I did a search but couldn’t find anything. I have an original 68 Deluxe with wet suspension. I wish to remove the rear subframe to treat the rust etc. What do I need to be aware of with the hydro connections (where do I disconnect).? Will I need to recharge the system again once I reassemble? The subframe has never been removed I don't think. Any help is greatly appreciated Cheers Michael |
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| Author: | iansmini67 [ Sun May 31, 2020 4:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removal of rear subframe - hydrolastic |
Hey Michael, The correct way is to depressurise the system with an appropriate Hydrolastic suspension pump. Most people if they do not have easy access to a pump simply unscrew the internal valves located at the back of the rear subframe (similar to a car or push bike tyre valve) and allow the fluid to run out all over the place. It will have some pressure behind it so be ready for a spray. You will need to have the system pumped back up with the Hydro pump. Where are you located? I'm sure there are several Mini people that could be close to you that have either original pumps or hand made ones to help you pump it back up. Ian |
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| Author: | dubbomini [ Sun May 31, 2020 9:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removal of rear subframe - hydrolastic |
Thanks Ian, I was also worried about the captive nuts in the kickboard. I’m think I might leave the subframe and just paint it on the car. Anyone else do that? |
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| Author: | Bill B [ Sun May 31, 2020 11:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Removal of rear subframe - hydrolastic |
Be very careful if you try to depressurise the suspension by pressing on the 2 Schrader tyre valves on the rear edge of the subframe - same as the valves on car tyres. The system still has over 100psi when all wheels are off the ground - a bit more than air in the tyres. Then the hydro pipes need to be unscrewed from their connectors from inside the U-section part on the rear of the subframe. Remove the bump stops from the trailing arms. Then the 2 helper springs need to disconnected from the pin on the trailing/radius arm. The spring is still under tension here, too, so a bit difficult. Disconnect the brake pipe at the pressure limiting valve. I usually remove the subframe, but they don't suffer too badly from rust in Australia. The main rust areas are the lower plate on both sides under the trailing arm - mud can fill the channel which you can see looking down from the outside to where the displacer unit joins the strut. The captive nuts can corrode or be damaged by corroded screws when removing them. If you remove the subframe, use 'recoils' on any suspect threads. The old threads usually only fail when you are fitting the subframe back in and everything is new paint! Then it's subframe out again. |
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