Cooperess
Halogen bulbs get slightly hotter internally (and hence are brighter than non-halogen bulbs) but there is very little difference in power (or current through the wires). UNLESS you fit 130 watt bulbs. DONT.
One reference that I found said that a 15 watt LED bulb produces the same light output as a 60 watt Halogen bulb. This is because the LED doesn't rely on the temperature of a piece of wire. The reduced power (current) means that your wiring SHOULD cope quite happily and will not get hot. You have not "solved" the problem, just avoided it, until you change back to "hot" bulbs. (AND you don't sound confident to fit relays for your current headlights)
LED bulbs DO get warm. The cheap ones don't get rid of the heat well and eventually die early. The expensive ones have much better cooling heatsinks and even fans and last longer than normal bulbs.
Dave2

Another symptom I have noticed is that speedometer glass fogs up, it must be related as it only happens when lights are turned on.

60/55s are not substantially higher powered than the the only "standard" bulbs I can find in my literature (50/40 (non halogen) bulbs are specified as standard in my 63 UK S handbook) so I would not expect this to be a real problem. ... maybe "warm" the wiring a bit?

Dave, the problem is that, if the current (boom boom) 60/55s are not the problem, then lower power bulbs (or relays) are not going to help. Obviously (don't call me Shirley) there's a short somewhere.

Unfortunately I don't think CS has the technology to find it.... time for a visit to the autosparkie methinks....

Cheers, Ian

1071 S I'm with you after the checks I have tried. If the short is in my new wiring loom after the numerous times I have heated it up, then all the tape needs to be removed or is there a simpler way?

Maybe I need one of these?
https://www.endeavourtools.com.au/ETPPB ... robe-basic

Having read through all the previous posts, and thinking about the speedo issue, I wonder if there is something wrong with the panel lights? The headlight wiring is rated at 14A continuous. For 2x75W globes (High beam) this is 6A per light which is fine. The panel light wiring is rated at 5A.

Cooperess
Yep. Find an auto elect who works on older cars. They will have seen every possible fault including restorations gone wrong or slightly wrong. One of your Ausmini helpers has probably hit on the problem and solution, but which one?
The test light is only better than a multimeter if you know EXACTLY what it is doing and measuring; I don't think that it will help.
Let us know the final solution.
Dave2

A power probe (what you linked to) won't really help you. They are designed to make testing quicker.

I have thought of buying one before but they don't do much a test light and a couple of bits of wire can't do.

If you are wanting to spend money on tools to sort this out a clamp meter which can read DC amps would be very useful and get a lot more use.

_________________
1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

Generally I would say if things don't get hot enough to let some smoke out then you won't have done any damage.

It's unlikely that your new loom (in itself) has a short.... You should be looking for un-insulated connectors or incorrect connections (an earth wire that shouldn't be there) or maybe wrong or multiple wires from a single terminal.

Car and especially Mini electrics are really quite simple. Power flows from the + battery terminal to somewhere (ie (usually but not always) the fuse box to somewhere (ignition switch maybe) to (usually but not always) a switch to something (lights, parkers, ignition) to earth (something bolted to the body) thence to the battery negative terminal (through an earth strap). Each item has its own circuit ... OK, some things (like headlights (unless you feed them through relays) and tail lights) may live on a single circuit.

The correct wiring diagram shows how each circuit is connected. All you have to do is check that the wires in your car match the diagram.

Because my cars are old, and have lots of non-standard fittings ...and wires...(stereo, extra lights, kill switches etc etc), I'm not a fan of wrapped looms. Small cable ties keep everything neat. If you must use wrap use cable wrapping which is non-adhesive... Do NOT use standard insulating/electricians tape.

You are correct, other people (me) run high powered lights (130W high beams) ...and spots...without any issues...

Cheers, Ian

Circa 1981, 100/55 in headlights, 100w in each Cibie oscar powered by twin double relays.......... no problems.

_________________
1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

Relays are dead easy... 30A from local supplier.... mine (Bosch) have installation diagrams printed on the side..

Two outputs - wire to lights, one fat input (from solenoid), one trigger (existing high beam wire from dipswitch) screw to inner guard in suitable position.... (or a nice little alloy bracket if you use more than one...)

And voila

Cheers, Ian

this was earlier



but now...



same thing applies to the floor switch anyway, a bit of wire with spade terminals on either end...

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Many thanks for all the forum members suggestions.
Looks like I have tried all the options but no results. I will put it on the back burner until I can think of something else to try.

At this point I'd be wanting to see a photo of the back of the headlight switch with the wires attached.

Hope these help.

For why?.... Why on earth would you pay $179 for a test light when you can get one from any auto supplier for about (I would think, not having bought one for years) ten bucks.... Or make one from scrap ...a few lengths of spare wire, an alligator clip, a spare tail light bulb and an old screwdriver....

And, if you don't have a test light, then you really need one...

Cheers, Ian