I just emailed the seller to confirm availability from 1 Sept.

I used aluminium angle iron and a rivett gun to make up a shrowd for the 4 core California Moke radiator I've currently got in the van. Look greats, does the job and can be removed in 30 seconds.

_________________
Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

has anybody got any idea of the on road performance of these rads yet? is it as good as they look?

i can't wait to get mine,

bit disappointed in the seller, he's still listing them without any stock available til 1 sept.....

not sure my feedback on the seller will be so good. hope the product is.

Now cheaper again (but you don't get post )

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/perfromance-alum ... 286.c0.m14

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

kinda kickin myself... bought one last week... still not here, but then i thought about it and i spent around 100 bucks reconditioning my one thats in there now... ah well... perhaps ill perform a mick and just leave it in the 'for Ron' cupboard....

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Different seller and radiator, the drain plug is at a different angle.
How many factories are churning these out?

I suppose all the factories that aren't making stuff for walmart anymore...

There's a few large factories lying idle over there I am told.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Are these recycled saucepans really any better than a real Oz 3 core brass/copper rad with 16 gills/inch, or are they just needless BLING??
Anybody tested one for cooling efficiency?

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would say that they are needless bling.
But unlike the proper radiator these are not easily repairable.

I am sure that someone will soon post a comparison between a new alloy rad and a 40 year old standard one with a blocked core.

Here's a question for someone, how are the fins bonded to the copper cores of the radiators??

I ask because while copper has a high rate of heat conductivity over aluminium (1.6 times better in fact) its lead solder that lets the side down with a totaly dismal heat transfer rate of 35! (compare this to aluminium with 236 and copper at 400 )

These numbers are based on watts of disapation per meter squared (and something involving kelvin too).
If the fins are bonded to the cores by lead, then for every splendid conductor, there is a thin film of virtual insulator wherever lead is involved. Ally is directly bonded to the tubes by its own parent metal, avoiding the problem.

This is the only performance gain I have heard argued in aluminium's favor (oh and the weight argument), other than that, alloy is 25 percent of the cost of copper per KG, and that makes pretty good sense as well from a manufacturing point of view.

_________________
SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Frankly when a new alloy radiator costs the same as reconditioning your old copper one, if the performance is comparable the cost of repairing the alloy rad becomes mute. Just stick it into the council recycling bin

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

When my Ford EA's alloy 2 CORE rad became 1/2 blocked by alloy oxide crud (as they do) I went and saw my friendly Chinese radiator man. He sold me a nice Natra brass/copper 3 CORE radiator, taxi spec. No more overheating whenever the boat was in tow.
I doubt an alloy radiator would have a long service life, when attached to a cast iron motor. But for a race car, yeah I can see weight advantages.

<edit> typo

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Good point. They do look nice though...

_________________
Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I wanted a refund as they don't have the radiators in stock. I'm still waiting for my money. Hmmmm

as my car is only being used on weekends and the odd mini run once its finished im sure it will last long enough for my money...my last one lasted three years..untill a screwdriver went threw the core...
i had it flused every service too so it was allways clean etc...
i was allways told good servicing will allways help a radiator keep a longer life??
$130 is quite cheap....so im not exspecting too much...and we wont know untill one of us gets it fitted to a running car to make a comparsion...
mines still way of b4 it gets to that stage so ill look forward to hearing someones elses views.

_________________
started a new project...there goes all my free time....