UK made Mk1 speedos had the voltage stabiliser at the top of the unit; Aust made Mk2 had the VS lower down, on driver's side and near the Ignition warning light bulb holder. Both used the stud for the VS.


This is my mk2. One of those earth leads goes to the "Dash Earth" on the driver's side gusset support for the cross member, near the external regulator for the alternator. This is to get a good earth for the instrument panel since it is mounted in a plastic binnacle.

Thank you Bill B

Don't cut them off, to Jaycar and get some heat shrink for the bit that pokes out of the connector, it'll be much neater

Take the globes out of your headlights and use your multimeter probes in the headlight socket to absolutely prove that you have
battery voltage (IE exactly the same as if you put the probes across the battery) on ONLY ONE of the blue/white or blue/red wires when the light switch is on, and that it swaps correctly with the indicator stalk.

I have the lights on my MK2 set up the same way as you. With the indicator stalk set up the way you have it, you should actually see the lights go off between the positions if you move it slowly, there's a point in the movement where neither of the contacts are touching

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MORE NEWS.

I am trying to trace heat in the headlight switch and headlight earth wires and have now found that the speedo is also heating up. Does this give anyone clues to my problem?

Cooperess
Your picture on Jan 1 shows a mechanical speedo drive so that should not cause the speedo area to heat up. The speedo is a very big area. To heat it up would require many watts (more than just poor connectors) if it is an electrical fault and would show in the voltage drop test.
1. Could your heater be running all the time, and maybe the windscreen vent pipes are broken and directing the hot air into the dash wiring area????
2. Do the voltage drop test so that you will know if the wiring is (roughly) correct.
Good luck; Dave2

1. Could your heater be running all the time, and maybe the windscreen vent pipes are broken and directing the hot air into the dash wiring area???? Heater is not in the car yet.
2. Do the voltage drop test so that you will know if the wiring is (roughly) correct. Not sure how to do this.

If you have a poor or missing engine ground it’s possible for the starter motor & engine accessories to earth through the speedo cable

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that's more about the starter motor trying to pull enough current to turn the engine over - not in this case?

I'd love to come and visit to sort through this one, but I'm 7 hours drive away... I'd start by disconnecting everything, tape up all of the connectors and test everything in isolation, there's a short somewhere

I think we need pictures of things!! There may be something obvious that stands out - otherwise it might be time to visit a compassionate auto electrician

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f you have a poor or missing engine ground it’s possible for the starter motor & engine accessories to earth through the speedo cable Is the speedo cable part of the earthing system?

It should not be, nor should the choke cable. You need to ensure the engine earth, the battery earth, and all the black cables are connected to effective earths.

Cooperess
You said that there is no heater but:
1. Could the heater pipes still go to under the dash and just be joined together????

There should be a very thick braided "engine earth strap" from a clean shiny metal part of the body to the engine block. AND another similar cable from the battery negative to the body; usually a bolt in the boot floor. The cable is about 15mm x 5mm with hundreds of strands of wire.


2. Does your car car have BOTH cables to clean attachment bolts?

If your car is missing the engine earth strap, then a huge current will pass through the speedo cable or the choke cable or one of the thinner black wires in the wiring loom when you try to start the car. This can make starting the car difficult and make voltage measurements unreliable.
Good luck, Dave2

Dave Dobeson = Does body earth strap from body to clutch wok or directly to the engine block?

it goes to the wok - ideally without paint under it

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Cooperess
Sorry about getting the name wrong; I have always called it an "engine earth strap" even when it goes to the clutch cover or wok. There are lots of bolts, so effectively the engine, gearbox and clutch housing are all at the same (zero) voltage. Simon K reminded us that the cable must be under clean, shiny bolt head or washer.
A voltage drop check can show if there is a major fault in the wiring. Normally, the voltage at the "fuse box" is close to the voltage at the battery. BUT, as you turn on the lights, more current flows and the voltage drops slightly.
1. Set your multimeter to 0 - 20 volt range and check the Battery Volts in the boot... = ........................
(I have used green and red jumper leads to show where the leads are connected)

2. Fuse Box Volts = .........................
(Green to a clean bolt head on the engine or body and red to above the RHS fuse)
(Leave the green and red leads where they are and just use light switches)
3. Parker Volts = .......................

4. Low beam volts = .........................

5. High beam volts = ........................

Let us know what voltages you get; they should be similar to my car
Good luck Dave2

Dave Dobeson Many thanks. Brilliant work = now to get my results. Is the car running when all these results were taken?