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GundyGuy
PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 4:42 pm 
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As noted i compared my old stuffed bag with a 21A2008 bag and noticed the cooper s bag the rubber section is moulded closer to the top of the metal body by about .200"
All i can see this doing is lowering the car for the same pressure compared to the 2008 ones

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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 4:58 pm 
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No, the rubber cone bit is actually thicker, that is why it is closer to the top. Increases the spring rate.
At the same pressure, the car sits higher. I have 2 in the front of my wasaMatic.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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GundyGuy
PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2016 5:07 pm 
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Thats funny as i measured the bottom side and the rubber part was further up on the cooper s bag
Will have another look as the cooper s bag was a bit knackered on the bottom side

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Flute
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 3:09 pm 
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Location: Bentleigh Melbourne Victoria Australia
Spent today wire brushing paint off and priming hydro bags. What sort of black paint should they be painted? Matt - Gloss? Might as well do it close to original seeing how I have gone this far! I will paint the silver bands back on to the hose and body. I might even make a stencil to put the part number back on. Only took about 5 minutes to get paint off using wire wheel on bench grinder.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
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Bill B
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2016 5:09 pm 
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Hello Flute,
I paint all suspension "satin" (semi-gloss) black, including the displacers. I spray Dulux Interior Enamel house paint. It has lasted for well over 20 years in other cars.
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Scoop
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 7:39 am 
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I've used KBS Blacktop (chassis black) in both gloss and satin with very good results. I believe the satin is closer to an original finish though.

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Freddo
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2016 11:18 am 
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Freddo wrote:
Hi All,

Well it is probably about time for a "mini" update :lol:

Finished my fathers Mk 2 now back onto my Mk 1. Been interesting building them side by side (almost) to discover how many differences there are between the cars. Anyway, been busy painting brackets and bits and pieces for the body and suspension and essentially bagging and tagging stuff and putting into a storage box ready for assembly.

Got onto the hydro bags this last couple of weekends...started with these

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Pretty dirty and rusty but the real deal for the early cars

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Funny that some other displacers have no part numbers stamped into them, these 4 do

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After cleaning them up and applying rust converter/sealer painting them was a breeze using the cap of the spray can as a stand

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Will post the finished product after this weekend


Cap from a spray can makes a great stand for paining them

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Flute
PostPosted: Wed Aug 10, 2016 7:59 pm 
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Very interested to see that better photo of the bands thanks. I thought they would have been rougher but looks like a pretty neat band which I hope to replicate. The part numbers may be harder to make two templates.

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Flute
PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 1:20 pm 
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Not saying mine are great but here is how I did mine and I am happy enough with them. I haven't found anywhere that can make a stencil to put the numbers back on yet.

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jimb
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2022 1:04 pm 
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I have a small leak in front S bag. Can I fit a rear S bag as replacement as I don't have front bag.
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Fritzie
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:44 pm 
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When I rebuilt my 69 Mk2 S, it had a replacement non Cooper S unit on the left hand front. I replaced with a spare rear 21A 2014 hydro bag. Certainly much firmer ride than the non S bag. The experts will probably advise that we should have the same type of bags on the same axle, however beggars cannot be choosers these days.

Regards Jon
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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2022 8:49 am 
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I would use 2x standard bags on the front with a 4mm washer on the knuckle joint pin, if you can't find an S front one.
And if the damping is now poor due to 50 years valve degradation, fit a pair of kyb or similar std Mini front shocks.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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Bill B
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2022 9:12 am 
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jimb wrote:
I have a small leak in front S bag. Can I fit a rear S bag as replacement as I don't have front bag.


Where is the "small leak" coming from?
Usually, it is either end of the hose.
Repairs can be made to the hose leaks: the free end can be reswaged using your old nut and tail; the end attaching to the displacer unit can be repaired by several methods that are a bit more complicated.
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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2022 1:08 pm 
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These hoses are all over 50 years old and getting brittle particularly the end on the bag.
I recommend using Pirtek MPH06 hose, secured with 2x Oetiker single ear clamps on each end.
I've done heaps this way with zero leaks. Tested at 270 psi.
MPH06 is 3/8" textile braided hydraulic return hose, 500 psi rated working pressure.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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jimb
PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2022 8:22 am 
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I have checked the hose at both ends and it does not show any leakes. There seems to be clean green coolant fluid around the rubber dust boot and a small puddle on the floor. The height does not look as if it has dropped. I think I will release the pressure on that side to check colour which after 7 years should be dirty not clean green. I have not lost any green coolant in the cooling system. Any thoughts?
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