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drmini in aust
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 3:28 pm 
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Convertible Mini wrote:
With most wiper motors I have pulled apart I find that it is very common for people to connect them wrong then they try and get someone to repair them. The little finger contacts that contact on the disc are often found to be destroyed as there had been a shorth through them as a result of wiring connected wrong. Ruining these contacts makes the Motors unrepairable as these contacts are not available any more. The Disc is fine I have plenty of those and Mine are Staimless steel. When playing aroung testing these motors "Please" replace the ignition fuse by a temporary 5 amp fuse just for testing so if you connect something wrong it will blow the 5anp fuse quick. Also work without wiper arms and blades fitted. The original fuse in the fuse box (35 Amp) only blows when it is too late and the contact damage is done. By the time a 35 Amp fuse blows the contacts had already been very hot and melted the plastic that holds them together making the metal go soft and distorted.

I've wired it up on the bench-
Will a 10A do? I only have these, or 2A... I guess I could try melting a 2A, first.:lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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winabbey
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 4:03 pm 
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John Smidt wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
what side of a wiper switch body is the flat on?:


Doc Flat is on the Right hand Side as you look at the front of switch

Doc - so to be absolutely clear, the switch is mounted as shown in the photo with Lucas England able to be read and the part number upside down, right?
Image
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 6:47 pm 
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Ta for the pic... :wink:
I'll try it tomorrow.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 6:31 pm 
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OK I tried it with the MBG wiring.
with a 2A fuse it moved a little then blew the fuse.
with a 10A it moved then stopped and fuse still OK.

I reckon it's parked now but with this MGB wiring setup it won't start... :?

Ah well I'll suss my mate's late S wiring next weekend... :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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winabbey
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:33 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Ah well I'll suss my mate's late S wiring next weekend... :lol:

Doc - does that mean two speed wipers were fitted as standard on late S's?
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winabbey
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:39 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
pos 1, pins 1-2-6
pos 2, pins 1-4-5-7
pos 3, pins1-4-7-8.

Doc - Because you had some problems I thought I'd verify the continuity on the toggle switch (mine arrived in the post today) and picked up a couple of differences, as follows:

pos 1 - OFF pins 1-2-6-7
pos 2 - ON LOW pins 1-4-6-7
pos 3 - ON HI pins 1-4-7-8

If you compare the switching to 64cooper's diagram I think the wiring to the toggle switch should be:

1 - none
2 - BLG (same as 5 on rocker switch)
3 - none
4 -B (same as 2 on rocker)
5 - none
6 - RLG (same as 4 on rocker)
7 - none
8 - ULG (same as 1 on rocker)

Is your test rig still setup to try this?
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 6:43 pm 
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winabbey wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
Ah well I'll suss my mate's late S wiring next weekend... :lol:

Doc - does that mean two speed wipers were fitted as standard on late S's?

Yes it was std on the last Ss with the liftup door handles.

Yes my rig still set up but it'll be Friday before i can play again. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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MattE
PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:17 pm 
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Folks,

Plenty more material on this topic at:

http://www.british-cars.net/mgb-technic ... 726734.htm

Hope you find it helpful.

I hope to, when I have time to digest it all.

Cheers
Matt
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 2:31 pm 
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winabbey wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
pos 1, pins 1-2-6
pos 2, pins 1-4-5-7
pos 3, pins1-4-7-8.

Doc - Because you had some problems I thought I'd verify the continuity on the toggle switch (mine arrived in the post today) and picked up a couple of differences, as follows:

pos 1 - OFF pins 1-2-6-7
pos 2 - ON LOW pins 1-4-6-7
pos 3 - ON HI pins 1-4-7-8

If you compare the switching to 64cooper's diagram I think the wiring to the toggle switch should be:

1 - none
2 - BLG (same as 5 on rocker switch)
3 - none
4 -B (same as 2 on rocker)
5 - none
6 - RLG (same as 4 on rocker)
7 - none
8 - ULG (same as 1 on rocker)

Is your test rig still setup to try this?

OK I have retested my switch, switching to pins is as you say... :oops:

Before hooking it up again I am a bit mystified- my single speed 3/70 round motor has a power wire to the switch, so does the MGB wiring. Why then does this not exist on 64 cooper's diagram, will it run without it? :?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 3:20 pm 
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OK the switch works, got 2 speeds :D but it won't park. :cry:
Is there a 12V+ wire missing here somewhere?

<edit> I had another look at a late Clubby diagram (Gregorys 02 manual) and it looks sort-of OK (it would be nice if the motor pins were numbered in the diagram).
How do I test the park circuit, without pulling the motor apart?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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winabbey
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:22 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
OK the switch works, got 2 speeds :D but it won't park. :cry:
Is there a 12V+ wire missing here somewhere?

<edit> I had another look at a late Clubby diagram (Gregorys 02 manual) and it looks sort-of OK (it would be nice if the motor pins were numbered in the diagram).
How do I test the park circuit, without pulling the motor apart?

I've now tested mine and get the same thing - two speeds but no self park.
The black workshop manual has a description of the self-switching limit switch and regenerative braking. I think I will have to pull apart a spare wiper motor to see how it works. There's also a couple of articles on the web that may help.
Doc - I know it would be a real coincidence but maybe the self-park function on both our motors is 'broken'. Did you get a chance to look at your mates late MK II wiring setup?
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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:29 pm 
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Yeah I crawled under it and checked the wiring but it's got a headlamp switch in it. :shock: So yeah he has 2 speeds working but no parky either. :lol: :x
My 1970 car has the single speed round motor and parks fine, I'll see where its wires go.
I also have another Clubby 2 speed, just need to drag it out for test.

Where is Convertible Mini when we need him... I'll send him a PM. :lol:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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64cooper
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:15 pm 
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Seems that my post on Saturday didn't make it. Very easy to check all windings in the wiper motor. The 4 way connector on the wiper motor as per previous posted diagram has a BLG (black/light green trace), RLG (red/light green trace), a ULG (blue/light green trace) and a green wire connected to it. The BLG and RLG wires are for the two different speeds and the ULG is for the self parking winding with the green wire being connected to battery. If you find that the self park is not working then a very common cause is that the copper brush that runs on the commutator plate has been burnt out and if so, a new wiper motor is needed. Secondly, it is also very common for this plate (being steel ) to have been badly corroded and subsequently the parking fails. If the brushes are OK it is very easy to replace the commutator plate and I'm not sure if 'convertible mini ' still has these in stock. Best to PM him.

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drmini in aust
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 3:05 pm 
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OK I've unearthed my other spare 2 speed motor, it still has the wires & plugs attached. :D
I'll play again tomorrow, it's too bloody hot out there now!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:
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winabbey
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 3:19 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
OK I've unearthed my other spare 2 speed motor, it still has the wires & plugs attached. :D

Doc - thanks for continuing with the testing. Is the connection to your spare motor via individual wires (with Lucar connectors) or does it have a plastic plug thingy that pushes onto all motor connectors at once (like an 8TR/4TR plug)?
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