As quoted below, no noise when the engine is off, presumably when coasting?


It might be stupid but did the rims clear the brakes? Are the wheel nuts and rims centering the wheel correctly especially under load?

It's there a particular driving condition that makes it better our worse, turning, accelerating etc? Does it do it with the wheels off the ground and turning? By hand? Under power?

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Yes that's right, noise is there with engine off and coasting down a hill. There are certain speeds when it is worse. It doesn't change if i am turning left or right. I have also swapped the front wheels out and its not that. I am leaning toward brakes but i am waiting for the rain to go away so I can jack it up and have a look. I appreciate all the ideas and I will post here if I find a solution.
Steve.

come on man!!! we are stuck at home. give us something!

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Yeah sorry about the delay, I have to go to work as well as work on the car. Lucky to still have a job at the moment though.
Steve

Priorities man. You have all of Australian Mini owners hanging

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Can it be something vibrating in the "wind" as you drive? A loose flare or something like that?
I had a roof rack on a car that sounded like a wheel bearing many years ago.

Hi it sounds like your noise is your steering rack. To check jack the car up and turn it right hand down and grab the rack at the boot end and see if it has moment up and down.
Cheers Rob.

If you are right Rob...the car should not be driven

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"Show me the Mini!"

Ok, so I had a bit of time to kill today and I jacked up the front to have a look. The steering rack is fine, no play anywhere. The brakes are pretty bad, all the wheel cylinders are either leaking or not moving at all. The shoes are fine. So I will start by replacing all cylinders. The left hand bearing is feeling a bit grungy so maybe I didnt get it right when i put it in. I will take the hub off when i change the cylinders and have a look. Pretty sure the problem is one of these two so hopefully fixed soon.
Thanks again, I will let you know if this works.
Steve

Usually when brake cylinders start weeping, the shoes become contaminated and the linings start to swell...drums get slippery so braking is lessened...

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"Show me the Mini!"

I will check that as well. It seemed pretty clean in the drum.

Ok, I think i may have found the noise in the front end. I have attached photo of the inner race of the left hand bearing, not in good condition. It was a new bearing that I put in and hasnt done many kms. I have ordered another one, mail is pretty slow at the moment so I can replace the brakes, ball joints and tie bar bushes.
Now I just have to get the race of the shaft, is angle grinder the best way? thats how i did the last one, took ages.
Thanks
Steve.

Maybe a bit of heat or a dremel with a small cut of wheel?

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

After you get it off polish it with some 180 paper so the bearings slide on by hand.
It's a PITA when they are too tight to remove.

I use an angle grinder with a grinding disc, grind flat until 0.5 mm thick then split it with a hammer and cold chisel.
Ballrace steel is too hard for a Dremel..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hopefully the bearing you've ordered is better quality than that one? This gets discussed all the time - the quality (or lack of it) in some parts now supplied. Better to pay more for Timken or similar.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43