Yeah well at the moment I just want to get it running. Once it is registered and on the road I will look at getting the rebuild done. I have blown an engine up before with low oil pressure so I've been bitten once

Do a compression test on each cylinder if the oil pressure relief valve is not the problem...if they are all low...revert to what the Doc said (rebuild required)...

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"Show me the Mini!"

Sure Richard...reminds of the time I had glass bowl type fuel pump fail, it would pump every now and then, the sight glass was always full...but when all the fractured bits got themselves into the wrong place the pump would not pump...just something to consider with an oil pump as well...(broken, worn or impeller slipping...)

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"Show me the Mini!"

When you check the oil pressure relief valve, see of it has any wear marks where it seals against the seat. (The seat is a separate part pressed into the block -on some if not all blocks - and there are reports that the seat can come loose) I always check this at engine rebuild time and if there are any marks then lap the valve into the seat using fine valve grinding paste. A piece of wooden dowling pushed into the valve makes an ideal lapping tool.
If you are replacing the valve and spring always lap the new valve into the seat to make sure it seals properly. Bits of gearbox can also cause the valve to jam partially open so you need to check and clean that out as well.

RonR

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68 build Mk1 Cooper S
72 Clubman GT project. Total restoration required

IMHO the old A Series is incredibly tough and enduring. While 15-20 psi at idle my not be good news for Kev's 100HP screamer, for an old 850 its stacks. You'll find it will probably increase with revs ... maybe 50 psi at around 3K rpm?? (where it will level off).

You'll probably find it will run like that for years.

Like the ad said .. its not the best but it will work...

Cheers, Ian