I've heard of flywheels and clutches exploding (hence the shields on some race cars) but the scatter pattern resulting when that clutch let go is amazing, especially the chunk that took off the starter extension housing.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

The starter extension is unnecessary as I'm running a gear reduction type starter.
I have once had a clutch go bang on a mini. There were no holes in the wok before it went, but there certainly were afterwards.

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Thanks to all for the useful advice, i got the wok off today after much frustration and swearing

Replaced plunger and thrust bearing, along with new lever arm. Adjusted up as it should be. Bled the clutch slave, new return spring, clevis pins on arm and pedal...unfortunately none of this has fixed my problem!

I can't get into gear while the engine is on, no worries with engine off. Anyone have any suggestions?

Post a pic of the new set-up

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

After further adjustment of the nuts on the plunger, as well as removing the return spring, i can now change gears while the engine is running. First time ive been able to drive it in a month, feels good taking it for a spin around the block!

the key adjustment is the clearance between the arm and the rest/stop (the 7/16 AF bolt). If taking the return spring off helps then this adjustment is wrong. You need the return spring to hold the release bearing off the clutch.

The two big nuts are to stop overthrow and you can back them right off till you sort out the first adjustment..

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Thanks Doz, I will check this again based on your comments, my understanding is that to adjust the 7/16 AF bolt, with the return spring off you pull the lever arm as far as it will go (towards the driver-side wheel) and then adjust the bolt so there is 0.020" gap between the arm and the bolt?

Yep, any more clearance and the return spring will pull the slave cylinder back further than necessary.

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Right, so after more fiddling around last night I still cannot get the adjustment to a point where, with the clutch return spring installed, the car goes into gear with the engine on.
With the spring off, the pedal feels great and I can change gears no worries with the engine running. The spring is brand new and as such is very stiff, can't find the old spring to save myself though.

I have read so much information on clutch adjustment and opposing views on leaving the spring off or on, I reckon I'm suffering from information overload, possibly overthinking it all!

So to summarise what I have done:

- new clevis pins at the clutch pedal to M/C, top and bottom of the lever arm
- new clutch return spring
- new lever arm
- new plunger
- new thrust bearing
- pulled the arm back as far as I can get it, then adjusted the 7/16 AF stop bolt so there is 0.020 gap between it and the arm
- played with adjustment of the nuts on the plunger, both fully backed off and close to the housing maybe 4mm - admittedly every adjustment in between too and nothing seems to make a difference

The issue I have is that it looks adjusted correctly, but as soon as I install the return spring the car won't go into gear with the engine running. Remove the spring and it has no worries going into gear. Is the solution here to just leave the spring off?

I would try replacing the pushrod in the slave cylinder with a longer one. It may be that the slave cylinder's piston needs to be pushed back down the bore to give it and the clutch arm enough throw.

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

Firstly - the big nuts on the plunger do not help anything so back them right off. The 0.020 gap can be less, what I generally do is take up the slack of the arm by hand, wind the stop bolt up to the arm and back it off 1 flat only. Holding in this position I then tighten the lock nut.

I check there is a gap but not really fussed if its 0.020, you just don't want load on the bearing all the time. I always use a return spring.

If this doesn't fix it then I can only think of one other thing, the rubber hose is stuffed and swelling during clutch push ( I have come across it before, lots of swearing beforehand). The return spring makes this problem worse as it puts more load on.

Cheers

Dan

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Careful if fitting a new release plunger due to wear, most new ones now are rubbish steel and not hardened like originals.
If you can file it it's NFG.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Our car has had no clutch return spring for the past year or so... No problems. Self adjusts like a verto clutch/anything but a mini with a thrust bearing.

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*witty signature*

Sapphire Blue Deluxe spread across three parts cars, two sheds and a driveway...

Thanks DrMini - I have read this in some of your posts in other threads - I picked up a new plunger along with the heavy duty lever arm from minisport UK,
what's your advice if it turns out the new one IS NFG? What options are there?

Buy a so-called EN24T one, or drill the hole to 9/16" then make and press fit a silver steel hardened bush in there.
The standard cheapo plungers are leadbrite or similar free machining steel, you cannot harden them. Last 3 months maybe.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.