I picked up a WB02 sensor from Tech Edge a few years back, assembled and tested it and just never got around to fitting it up

Anyway, I've dug it up now, maybe I should get to it...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Webcon UK do a nice kit,

http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopdisplayprod ... d+Displays

I think the kits(like mine) are a bit of a legacy now.

There's a risk in constructing them without errors, and they're a little harder to mount up than a simple gauge and sensor. You've got to like building kits I guess

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hey Doc,
Have been looking at setting up a portable gauge myself as I've never been confident at setting mixtures. What is a good air fuel ratio to aim for or does it vary as the rpm increases? I would assume you and most of us would run a 98 octain fuel in most road cars. Would it change the air/fuel ratio if a lesser octain fuel was used. Any info would be good.

Cheers
Ian

I've got an AEM Wideband Uego gauge with Bosch sensor and this is my AFR
tickover 13:1
cruise 14-14.5:1
Accel 12.5:1
WOT 12.5-12.8:1

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Is richer the higher or lower number? i.e does the number increase or decrease as it gets richer?

12.5 is rich 14.7 is 'ideal'

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It's easy once you know how.

It is normally referred to as A/F ratio (Air/Fuel ratio) so a 12/1 A/F ratio is 12 parts air to 1 part fuel (rich), whereas a 20/1 A/F is 20 parts air to 1 part fuel (lean)

Caleb

Hi

I have recently dug out my Innovate LC-1 wideband controller and have begun to tune my HS4 SU on my 1098.
I bought the Innovate tailpipe exhaust clamp but I was having trouble getting a steady reading with idle revs below 1000 rpm, as others have found.
So I decided to lengthen the exhaust clamp with a piece of 1/2 copper tube. I simply expanded the end, cut four slits in it with a hacksaw and hose clamped it to the end of the exhaust clamp. On the open end I expanded it a bit and but a flare on it ( I don't know it this makes any difference). I had to bend it a bit to match the exhaust pipe bend.


The results were very good, the readings are now stable way down as low as the car will idle (about 600 rpm).
Check out my video, idling about 900 rpm.


Caleb

How much accuracy do you lose with it stuck up the tail pipe vs sensor nearer to the engine?

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If the reading is steady it should read the same.
,

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.