You can work out the current draw (Amperes or Amps) from the simple formula
Amps = watts divided by voltage
I = W / V
So for the high beam 130w / 12v = 10.8 amps per lamp so 21.6 amps for high beam.
Low beam is 90w / 12v = 7.5 amps per lamp so 15 amps for low beam..
Tha actual measured current draw may be slightly different but not majorly.

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Cheers Dave.

So to follow Steams' example and my comment earlier, a pair of 60/45 bulbs only draw 10amp/7.5amps ~ half what your bulbs are drawing.

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

ausdino So, if I use 60/55W bulbs, that should Ok for the original Mini wiring?

The original sealed beam headlamps were 60W / 45W so the 60/55 should be OK, BUT the switch/stalk and their wiring can still get hot and cause problems even with the original equipment. it was fairly common to have switches fail due to overheating even with sealed beams.
A relay system will prevent any further issues.

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Cheers Dave.

Steam Using my touchy feely method, there is still heat in the switch and the black earth wires at the headlight end of the wiring.

That would suggest other possibly unrelated issues to the lamp wattage. The earths getting hot could be bad connections at the earth points or maybe the connector or lamp connections are dirty or corroded.
Heat in wiring is usually generated close to the problem point.
If the switch is second hand or used then the contacts may be corroded or degraded already which will cause poor connections thus heat.

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Cheers Dave.

I am using a new Vin Wiring front loom. The light switch is new. Only the wiring from the lamps to the Vin Wiring loom are original.

Is it the same switch that was being used with the 130w/90w lamps?
The problem at the lights could be at the connectors at all points.

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Cheers Dave.

I have used a new & old switch with the same results, so need to check connectors, right??

Hello
You never answered the question about whether the switch heats up with the lights OFF.
If you got the spade connectors wrong on the high/low headlight dipper, then both would come on together??? OR both turn off?? AND the light switch would overheat because of the high current.
Plus the heat does not necessarily occur near the fault: a fuse is actually designed to heat up and melt a long way from the wiring fault ..... to protect the wiring.
Good luck. Dave D. Do you have a fire extinguisher?

Dave Dobeson The switch does not heat up when turned off.
I have adapted the low & high beam from the indicator stalk, so no floor dip switch. Original glass fuse has not blown.

Is the wiring getting very hot rapidly or is it getting warm, going to hot as time goes on and is it the same at the switch as at the lamp connectors?
Is the wiring at the stalk also going the same?

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Cheers Dave.

Cooperess
I think that we are getting closer to the problem. (The solution is up to you.)
The early Minis had a 35 amp fuse in the light circuit. This won't blow unless there is a direct short from the wiring to the chassis.
Do high and low come on together?
Do they both go off together?
Can you draw us a circuit showing how you "adapted the high and low beam from the indicator stalk".
(90% of my Mini problems are a result of trying to "adapt" the original systems on the car.)
Dave D

Dave Dobeson
Do high and low come on together? No
Do they both go off together? No
Low beam is on the switch. Hi beam is on the stalk when pushed forward. There is no high beam flasher when stalk is pulled back.
I will try to put up a drawing of the indicator stalk adaptation.

You have not answered this question. It will help to determ8ne your issues.

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Cheers Dave.