Connect Brown and White wires together. If there is a spare terminal on the brown plug then connect the white plug into it.

The other single wire for the starter solenoid is White / Red



Edit - removed the oil light wire from the diagram. Its not supposed to be there

This is the wiring diagram for YDO5 (Mini DeLuxe). The MK II Cooper S is slightly different (alternator, oil/water temp gauges lights, electric fuel pump) but the basic circuits are the same.

Click to enlarge

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Nope nothing works Dead as a Do Do.

if absolutely nothing works then it would suggest a dead battery or the connections to the battery are suspect. Particularly the main earth and its connections.

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Cheers Dave.

Do you have one of those red key battery isolation switches to earth? I had a similar problem with the Dino, isolation switch to earth. Would start, run and drive . Stop somewhere and it would be dead as a door nail. Nothing. Checked terminals etc, battery had 12+v by multi-meter. Turned isolator switch on/off a few times and all fixed. Replaced it and no more problems. The points inside it were lightly arced/corroded and the spring wasn't as it should be - so the whole electrical system had no earth. Once the isolator cooled down again, it would work, causing the intermittent problem.

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

Haven’t had a chance to take the ignition switch out yet but to answer the last posted question, yes I do have an isolator on the negative terminal but it’s different to the one you described. Mine has a green plastic knob which you turn clockwise to make things happen and anticlockwise to turn power off.

Those green knob things are renowned for getting corroded, mine did. I would remove it and try without.
They are also underrated as when the starter is cranking over, it can pull 250 amps or more. Way more than that switch rating is.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Try by-passing it or switching it on/off a few times with a voltmeter on your starter solenoid main post. Could be a similar problem with worn terminals inside. edit (Sorry Doc, you must have posted your response at the same time)

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

The easy way to check is to use a good quality thick wire jumper lead to connect directly from the battery negative to the body at a clean metal spot.
Also check the positive as it connects to the solenoid as this is the main connection point. You can connect from the positve to the solenoid with a jumper lead also.

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Cheers Dave.

Have you tried a different coil. A long shot but if old it might not like getting hot.

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1965 MK1 English Morris Cooper S (Downton)
1967 MK1 Morris Cooper S
1972 Clubman GT (6/72 Cadiz)
1968 MG Midget

OK. I have taken the isolator out and reconnected the battery and still absolutely nothing.
Earth connection is nice and clean. I will remove the ignition switch and check that out.
Just on question of faulty coil, if that could be the problem, I would be getting lights on the panel, would’nt I ?
Have I mentioned that the car has electronic ignition? Maybe something has gone haywire there.
Could a faulty solenoid be the issue?
Anyway I am going to have a beer and some lunch and back into it. If the ign switch is not the problem it may be time to get the electrician out.

Where are you, maybe someone local from forum can help!!

The problem would seem to be before the ign switch. The lights are wired directly from the solenoid so do not rely on fuses or ign switch.
The horn and int light are also wired from the solenoid via fuse in fuse block but still independant from thr ign. If these do not work then the problem is in the battery / wiring / solenoid connections rather than the ign switch.

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Cheers Dave.

Just have not indicated that you have tried to check the effectivness of the earth at the battery using a jumper cable from the battery to another earth like th efuel tank securing strap bolt head.
What is the state of charge of you battery? Is it 12.7 volts or above? Have you measured it after charging?
Have you had the battery tested?
I'd leave everything else alone until you check the above.

Problem fixed! Turned out to be a dirty/half corroded terminal at the solenoid
Thank you all for the advice you gave me. Luckily I did not get around to getting the ignition switch out.
This forum has a wealth of knowledge and I am very grateful for all your comments.
I will be in touch again when the next problem happens.
So it is now beer time!